Il Ngwesi Lodge and Safari

Monday saw us leave Kandara to go to Il Ngwesi an eco lodge supported by VSO volunteers http://ilngwesi.com/ this is run by and for the local community providing valuable funds and training tourism and hospitality as well as an outlet for the beadwork programme. Refer to the website for more detail on the activities of the community and also the wonderful accommodation at the lodge.

After a week of rural Kenya and meeting the real people, seeing the lifestyles, warmth and culture outside the tourist bubble, we now had 3 day of safari’s, etc.

We travelled north and stopped at Nanyuki  and the Il Ngwesi office to meet Sally, Annelieke and Henry the 3 volunteers who are working there. After a lunch with them we then headed for the Gate to Lewa National Park. We are met by Kisio who remembered me from my visit in May and we caught up on news as we drove in the 4 x 4 across the National Park. Along the way we saw, among others, the following:

Black Faced Monkey - How did they think of that name?

It is a 2 hour drive across the National Park and we saw only 3 other vehicles (such a contrast to the Masai Mara where you can sometimes be chasing herds of Matatus – especially at Wilderbeast migration time). It is this remoteness that appealed to me so much last time I visited and what I looked forward to sharing with my parents this time. Il Ngwesi is outside the National Park in the Conservation Area which is home to elephants, giraffes, impala, zebra, etc. as well as the Masai community who herd their goats and cows alongside the wildlife (this is the difference with the National Park where the herding and living is not allowed).

We had 2 dawn safaris with breakfast in the bush on one of them, a sunset bush drive with drinks on the ridge as the sun set and a visit to a Masai village (the 3 of us were the only guests so it was an extremely intimate experience). Between trips we relaxed at the lodge and enjoyed the great food and the view of the huge expanse of wilderness with at night no lights as far as the eye could see – how often do you get that – the stars were unbelievable with no light pollution. A further selection of photos below should give an insight into the joys of this place.

DAWN SAFARI

Breakfast by the river in the bush 

I guess he was upset he was not invited for breakfast!

SUNSET DRINKS

MASAI VILLAGE

It is a good job we do not have to rely on our archery for food!

 Lighting a fire by rubbing sticks together

Sterilising milk containers with hot embers and smoke

Outside the house

 Yep I did have a go but could not get that high!

Our guide for the evening, believe it or not was called Dickson!

The Big Feast

The rest of the week was more meeting of the community including an invite to lunch at the Manager of the Polytechnic (Dorcas) house to meet her husband and child. It turned out there were neighbours and friends invited too.. .we were around 20 in total in the end. More overwhelming warmth and generosity again.

Our last day in Kandara was the highlight with a traditional family celebration at the Kibes. This involved 40+ family members coming round and the slaughtering of a goat we had christened "Lunch"!! All this was in honour of my parents coming and with me being an adopted family member they were welcomed into the family.

"Lunch" - little did he know the significance of his name!

Dad and I were offered the privilege of slaughtering the goat but both declined (soft lads!!). I, sort of, think it is something that is so part of Kenyan culture that I should try it before I leave. So far I have not even seen it happen, always arriving as this time after the bloody bit.

 The structure of these events is very gender segregated with the boys doing the slaughtering and butchering followed by the cooking of the meat. The girls stay in the kitchen and sort out the veg, rice and chapatis. Both out of sight of each other. 

The elder (Elliot) manages the proceedings of the meat - this included making sausage and filling stomachs with various parts of the body. Nothing is wasted. So here is what I ate - boiled heart, boiled meat soaked in fresh (uncooked) blood, sausage - intestine stuffed with boiled meat and blood (black pudding like), boiled small intestine, liver, kidney, and meat.  All with the exception of the small intestine was really good. 

The meat in fresh blood was quite a challenge but once in my mouth was quite nice.

Samuel (Elliots brother) started gouging the eyes out and I thought -"oh no now they have reached my threshold!!" but these are traditionally left where the goat is slaughtered so thankfully were not eaten. The head and bones etc are then boiled to make soup.

There goes the eye!

The elders and chief guests (me and Dad) get first pickings of the meat, then by age each of the other males. Only then do the ladies get taken what is left of each element. Elliot also picks a selection out for late or surprise guests too before the ladies get theirs. Once the meat is eaten then the genders get together for the rice, veg and chapatis. Followed by dancing and singing.

A pause in the dancing to eat the feast. 

8 August - 1st Motorbike Ride at 71!!

Wednesday 8 August – Morning was spent visiting the baby unit at the orphanage. I played my usual role of climbing frame sat on the floor whilst Mum and Dad sat in chairs and read stories, played with toys and nursed the little ones. No photos on this visit whilst the kids got used to the new arrivals – sorry.

In the afternoon my Mum at 71 had her first ever ride on a motorbike. I decided to take Dad on the back of mine and put Mum on a piki (motorbike) taxi in the belief that the professionals would be safer than me!! 4.5km of dirt road later and Mum had survived the feeling of complete fear and being “completely out of control”. I think the piki man may have had a few broken ribs from my Mum’s tight grip.

We were visiting the Kibe’s my adopted Kenya family (refer many previous blog posts). The oldies received another very warm and excited welcome from the whole family at the mud hut shamba which is home for 5 generations of the Kibe’s in 5 houses.

First to Jane’s house for Chai and then shortly later my Mum was helping in the kitchen and my Dad was being given a tour of the farm and guidance in coffee growing, avocados mangos etc. 

Later Mum was helping Cu Cu (the 102 year old grandmother Kibe (sat in the middle below)) to sort out beans which involved first beating the dried bean stalks that were in a pile on the ground on top  of sacks. 

 Little Carol was pleased with the toy Mum had brought!

This gets the beans out of the pods. Then the sacks are used to collect the beans which are then sifted via a basket top. They are flicked into the air and any bits/stalks blow away in the wind with the beans staying in the basket lid – well at least that is the plan!! Mum was actually very good and quickly got in to the swing of it.

A feast later and lots of chatting and we called another motorbike for Mum. This time she was waving to people we passed etc so obviously feeling quite safe!!

Tuesday 7th The “Royal Visit”

The Polytechnic where I work closed for the end of the second term 2 August. However, despite my protests, the team wanted to reopen for the day to meet my parents and show off the institution. This was very touching to both me and my parents as nearly 40 of the maximum 45 regular attenders turned up during their holiday in full uniform. In addition half the staff and half the Board of Governors. All had been there since 8 preparing food and the tour they planned for us. We were asked to arrive around 10.30. This involved my parents first experience with a Matatu. In Kandara we picked up one outside the orphanage which was almost full. Dad got in the front and Mum by the large side door. She settled in the last available seat. Then, as is normal, another 4 people squeezed on, two leaning over mum with feet on the door well and two hanging out of the open door. It was only a short trip to Kamagaru where we changed for another matatu for the 2km to the poly. Another squeeze, lots of laughing and chats with locals.

A Matatu - Record so far is 29 people in one of these!!

The Board of Governors and Some Staff

 We arrived at the Poly to much activity and were greeted by the Manager and Board. Had a formal introduction to the board in the meeting room with Chai and cakes.

Then out to meet the students. Mum and Dad had provided funds for the students to have chai and cakes and helped to dish them out. Being served by Mzungus amused the students greatly.

Ma n Pa said “So much for low profile! Felt like a royal visit etc”

All these turned out on their hols!

I then had a meeting and left Mum and Dad in the kitchen helping to prepare the lunch.

Head Boy Mwai doing his speech

Then back to the Orphanage for more fun with the kids.