Sunday 27 January 2013

Elliott – Personal Story of an IDP (Internally displaced person)–


Elliot is the eldest brother in my adopted Kenya family. He used to live on his 5 acre shamba (smallholding) in Solai near Nakuru in the rift valley. He had lived there for 14 years with his wife and 5 children. Where the shamba is, the population is predominantly Kikuyu tribe, but, Elliot’s shamba is next to an escarpment which forms the border with a predominantly Kalejin Tribe on the other side of the plateau.
Elliott is a keen and efficient farmer and in the period leading up to 2007 the shamba had over 100 orange trees, and grew maize, beans, sukuma wiki etc. The shamba was very productive and generated enough food for the family together with a reasonable surplus for additional income. There were also 4 goats 15 chickens to provide milk, eggs and meat. Elliott had to leave his home in Solai in 2008. The background to this follows below.
On 13/14 December I had the priviledge of accompanying Elliot to visit his shamba for the first time since 2007/8 elections a period of 5 years.
These elections were marred by controversy and violence which resulted in 1,133 dead (This is the most regularly quoted number. There are many other numbers ranging from 800 (Wikipedia) to 1,500) There were also 600,000 displaced (again there is a range of numbers but this seems the most consistent – feel free to do your own search) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2007%E2%80%9308_Kenyan_crisis). There are still some of the IDP's living in "refugee" style camps 5 years on. 
Kenyan politics is often clustered into tribal groups with candidates predominately representing one tribe. In 2007/8 there were alleged anomalies in the results. These were then hotly disputed by other tribes. The resultant fighting and what bordered on ethnic cleansing lead to representatives of tribes beating, killing and driving out those of other tribes from their neighbourhood. There is much written about the causes and whose fault it was. For those affected and killed that is largely irrelevant, their lives have been turned upside down, or lost, just for being from “…the wrong tribe…”. I will leave it for the reader to research the background to this and form their own conclusions. Here I want to tell the personal story and try to illustrate what effect the violence has had on a fairly typical the common man in Kenya. The tribe Elliott is from does not matter, there will be examples like this for most of the tribes. What I want to illustrate is the impact the election violence had on one family.
I had talked with Elliott for some time about his old farm and his desire to go back. He felt that it should be safe now at least to visit but his Mother, the 102 year old Cu Cu was not happy.
In 2007/8 during the election violence, the adjacent tribe allegedly came over to the area of Elliot’s shamba, attacked/killed people and burned shambas, etc. At the onset of this Elliott sent his wife and children to his mother’s shamba in Central Province where there was much less tension. Elliott stayed to protect his shamba. A brave and very dangerous decision. Night after night shambas in the area were attacked and Elliot could regularly see burning buildings through the darkness. During the day, he heard the harrowing stories of the atrocities. Eventually, Elliot received news, via a friend, that he was to be attacked that night. Reluctantly, Elliot quickly packed and left before nightfall to join his family in Central Province. That decision probably saved his life. He had not returned until December 2012. The next Elections are March 4th 2013. Here is hoping it goes peacefully and people can return to their homes and rebuild their lives.  

Elliott outside his Central Province "temporary" home


Me with 102 year old Cu Cu and Elliott sharing a joke in his sisters mud hut


From left to right Elliott, sister Jane, Jane's grandson George, Helen (VSO Volunteer), Cu Cu, Me holding Samuel Elliott's youngest, Anne, Miriam's youngest, Miriam (jr) Miriam's grand daughter, Dan (VSO Volunteer), Margaret (in front of Dan) Ellioott's wife and lastly Miriam Snr

Having left a flourishing 5 acre shamba which generated a healthy income from the crop surplus, Elliot now lives on a 3 acre shamba which is home for Elliot and his family (once 5 but now 3 due to the eldest boys & girls having left home), his mother, his sister Jane and her 3 sons, sister Miriam and her 2 daughters, Elliot’s Brother and his family of 3 and Miriam’s sons family of 3. A total of 18. Needless to say, there is little enough land to generate food for that many mouths and the adults have divided the shamba to try to make it work. There is no opportunity for cash crops and the only income comes from casual labour, with the exception of Miriam, who works seasonally at the nearby coffee factory.   
When the day of the visit came I met Elliott at 7.30am and we got a Matatu to Thika and then another to Nakuru a journey of 4 hours. Elliot was naturally subdued and circumspect. In Nakuru we had a quick chai stop before boarding another matatu to Solai, the nearest village to the Shamba. On arrival in Solai, I stocked up on water as it was to be a 45 minute walk to the shamba in the mid-day sun.
Elliott’s spirits had risen as the excitement of returning sunk in. Walking through the village, it was obvious that Elliot had been a very popular and respected member of the community. We received many loud and boisterous greetings and “Are you coming back?”, “It is safe now….”, “We miss you…..”, etc. Everyone we met for the first 20 minutes was from Elliott’s tribe. We talked animatedly as Elliot recounted stories and personalities as we passed various homes.
Elliott - Happy at being reunited with old friends

Suddenly, Elliott went quiet and his face hardened. A man was walking along the road in our direction. No smiles or greetings were exchanged as he passed. I looked at Elliott once we were clear and asked “Kalejin?” “Yes” he said and fell silent for a while. We passed two others in a similar manner.
The long walk from Solai to the Shamba
   
Finally though, we reached the shamba. Elliot’s emotions swung from excitement to reflective to angry and back again with rapid pace as we approached and entered. The shamba was largely over-grown, there was a donkey grazing and about 20 orange trees full of ripe fruit. We went over to one of the trees and Elliot proudly handed me a large “Jaffa” style juicy fruit. Elliot smiled from ear to ear as for the first time in 5 years he ate the fruit of his shamba and stood in it’s grounds. 
The first taste of his fruit in 5 years mmmmmmm

"These are mine"!
We explored further and entered the fenced off area that was where the house had once been. There was nothing left but a dark patch on the ground, barely distinguishable from the rest. Elliot stood and proudly explained how it was laid out and reminisced on family gatherings, etc. 
"This is where my house once stood and the store over there"

Later. we wandered further into the shamba and could see the escarpment and plateau. He explained about the men coming over the hill and then turned and spread his arms pointing out where he had seen burning houses and where skirmishes had occurred. This was the time when his anger finally and fully surfaced. The pain was clear in the creases in his face as his finger pointed and jabbed the air like he was shooting a pistol. Having vented, he slowly calmed down. I left him for a while to wander the shamba with his thoughts.
Elliott's anger finally explodes as he explains the attacks.

An old friend

Elliot returned to me and there was soon a shout from the nearby track. A good friend and neighbour had heard we were there. Huge warm hugs and rapid chatter ensued. The friend was then dispatched to get bags for oranges whilst we went to see the neighbour on the other side. We entered a very tidy homestead where we were greeted, at first, with “Who are these strangers entering” stares which rapidly illuminated into beaming smiles that only Africans can do like that “ELLIOT!!!!” came the cry and the old Cu Cu (grandmother) came running over, followed by her daughters clutching a baby grandchild. Once again hugs and excited chatter ensued. The baby was passed to the Mzungu, which then cried (the baby not the mzungu!) well you would if you had never seen a white man and suddenly you where thrust at a 6 ft 4 chap. 
The neighbouring family and Mzungu with baby

We sat in the shade of a tree and drank chai whilst Elliott and Cu Cu caught up on news and I entertained the ladies with my attempt to stop the baby crying!  
   
Back to the shamba and once the bags arrived, we picked oranges to take to our next port of call as well as back to Elliot’s family in Central Province. 

Fully laden we the set off back to Solai. After more hearty greetings and chatter, we boarded a Matatu back to Nakuru, tired both physically and emotionally, quite a day. It was not over yet.
Laden with fruit and passing another plot where a home was razed to the ground.

One of Elliot’s sisters lives in Njoro which is west of Nakuru and a place Elliot seldom gets to go to. We had arranged to stay there the night before returning home. We arrived after dark and were welcomed into a well-managed shamba full of goats and cattle, plus a very large number of children. We were welcomed in to the house, introduced to all the family members and the ladies disappeared off to produce the supper. “The boys” chatted in the house and random friends and family members dropped by through the night to greet the visitors. Late into the night we all fell asleep exhausted.

Sunday 20 January 2013

Tarantula Bite!



Tarantula – I was bitten by a mystery insect in early December. Started off as a couple of innocuous spots and progressed to swell my finger to alarming proportions. I went to a pharmacy and was given anti-inflammatories and antibacterial tablets. After 36 hours my whole hand was swollen and I was feeling very feint and had a full body sweat for 30 mins. 

Luckily there was a doctor on hand who called a pal to bring some more drugs which I took and tried to sleep it off. “If no improvement in the morning go to hospital”. Well I was due to go rafting the next morning so I was hoping for the best. There had been discussion about what had bitten me:
Scorpion – “no he would have felt it and the reaction would have been quicker”
Snake – “same he would have felt it”
Tarantula – “most likely” – plus some subsequent research be me on Wikipedia etc http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarantula  - “some individuals may suffer severe symptoms due to an allergic reaction rather than to the venom. Such allergic effects can be life-threatening.” Mine was just an allergic reaction and not life threatening  (at least after the hefty dosage of 4 different drugs – Anti –histamines were also added to the cocktail.)
The morning came and the swelling had reduced to just my finger which would not bend but I felt it would be OK just using 3 fingers J. More on the rafting later. The swelling stayed despite the drugs but at least it did not get bigger. I was a little concerned that something might be growing in my finger (watched too many sci-fi films?) So I was lancing and squeezing the thing with very disappointing results – until day 6!!! 
This time – blimey !!! – a sudden rush of toothpaste diameter and consistency puss oozed from the offending finger an inch long – uuurrrgh! I wiped it off and another inch appeared. 3 inches (7.5cm) in total – I have a picture but in the interests of you keeping down your last meal I have not posted it. Over the next 4 days I re squeezed every 2-3 hours and eventually the battle of the puss was won and at the time of writing (4 weeks after the bite) all is now well.   

10-12 December


I had a great few days with a pal rafting with  Savage Wilderness Safaris LTD. We had booked on the 2 day one night trip (but added an extra nights accommodation so we could chill out after the second day). The camp is a lovely place and very relaxing. They have been there for a long time so are well set up and the accommodation is excellent and reasonably priced. You have the choice of everything from a two man tent (with mattress and bedding provided), bunk house, tented cottage, cottage. The food is also great and we were never hungry. There is also a small pool. Other activities include kayaking, climbing, bungee, tree walking, etc.
We were to raft in a group of 6 with a guide, luckily for us the other group of 4 did not arrive so  there were 2 of us and a guide in the raft – a private tour J We started off 16km upstream of the camp with a couple of KM of flat water to get used to the raft and the commands. My co –paddler was a weak swimmer and new to white water sports. But first the offer of a bridge leap was not to be missed. Now I have an unpredictable fear of heights that catches me out on many a hill walk etc. My solution to try and kick that habit is to push myself at every opportunity. Not sure it makes sense from a psychology perspective but boy does it get my heart racing. Standing at the edge of a 8m high bridge over a river being asked to step over the parapet and leap somewhat defies logic. However after a little internal battle I thought lets go. Stepped up and over (no hesitating or history has told me I will waver and refuse) suddenly flying through the air (only a little scream – honest!!) then bang hit the water, sink down surprisingly far, swim back up and to the bank, what a rush! Our guides were great fun and very relaxed. They quickly assessed our needs and levels of adventurousness. So over the two days we surfed the raft at the bottom of a grade 4 rapid (“Whitewater, large waves, long rapids, rocks, maybe a considerable drop, sharp maneuvers may be needed – source http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whitewater) , 


We flipped the raft twice (deliberately “for a laugh?”) and also did a rapid swim where (again defying a certain logic!) we jump out of the raft before a not insignificant rapid and then swim down a raging torrent – and we are paying to do this?
Savage camp is  great place and the staff are amazing, they go out of their way to make sure you get the most out of your stay and I highly recommend the experience. I have rafted and kayaked many times and this was one of the best experiences I have had so the recommendation is not lightly given.
For more information - Savage Wilderness Safaris Ltd, www.whitewaterkenya.com        www.savagewilderness.org    info@savagewilderness.org  Tel/Fax: (254)20 712 1590   Mob: (254) 733 735 508 however please note I struggled to get the website to work with Kenyan internet strength.

1st December - Goat for Dinner!


Following receipt of cash from a donor Kandara Children’s home purchased a goat. There was a request earlier for me to go and pick it up on my little 125 motorbike with Joseph the grounds man.  That would have meant Joseph the goat and me on the bike. I declined! It may have been fun but there are strict rules on bike usage from VSO. More importantly however it was raining on and off and the thought of riding 5km in wet very slippery clay mud was enough to result in me declining to help.
Whilst I have been to a number of feasts and ceremonies, I have so far managed to arrive after the slitting of the goats throat. I have on a number of occasions been offered the honour of performing the act!! So far I have declined as I am a bit soft and struggle to inflict pain on a living animal (happy to eat them just do not want to do the gory bit!). Anyway I decided this time to watch the act and see whether I felt I could do the deed next time.
So the kids gathered in and around the pen and 3 of the older boys tied the back legs of the goat. The legs were then hoisted in the air so the goat was suspended with its head towards a pan on the floor. One of the boys then started sawing away at its neck with a carving knife. Much squealing from the goat and cheering from the kids and the goat stopped twitching. The blood was drained away and the butchering started. 


To western people this may seem inhumane and barbaric but it is daily life here in Kenya. There are not many fridges etc so meat it killed at the time of needing it for cooking. At least it is fresh. All ages watch and in time begin to be allowed to partake with chickens first, then as they get older they move onto larger fare. That way by the time the boys have to fend for themselves they are well versed in slaughtering and butchering.
Having witnessed the slaughter I am not sure I could do it so I may stick to the eating bit!

30 November - Graduation Ceremony


I had the privileged of being invited to share a graduation ceremony for Kimani one of my Kandara group of friends. This was held at his parents home, complete with feast, slaughtered goats, marquee and about 200 guests. As ever in Kenya, lots of speeches and dancing. A great evening and lots of interesting people to talk to. They even dragged a reluctant mzungu (white European) to give them a laugh with his "strange dancing"!! I needed a drink after that! 


Kimani and his sisters and brother in law


I just love dancing!!



In the bar having a conversation with random Kenyans I never cease to be amazed by the random vocabulary that is known. This day the two words – used in the correct context were “Bombastic” and “Garrulous” how often would you hear those two in England?   

Sponsor a Goat - The Real Long-Term Benefit


A sponsor from the UK helped the Kibe’s buy a goat, we got a pregnant one so now there are 3. 2 girls and a boy. The original plan was for the UK people to sponsor George through school. However by buying goat, for the cost of 1 years schooling, we have a sustainable income stream through a breeding programme and milk production that can fund George's schooling to the end. If we do it right we may also be able to fund others in the family. All for the price of one years schooling - Result! 

Anyone else interested in sponsoring a goat for other needy and worthy families in Kenya please get in touch. We can keep you updated with photos and progress reports etc. 


So here they are Jasmine, Simon and Ruth (the goats) with Jane, Elliott and George. Jasmine (mum goat) now provides milk for 4 families and Ruth (daughter of Jasmine) is soon to be ready to start breeding. Simon (Son of Jasmine) will either be sent to breed with other goats or become lunch – quite a contrast in options from his perspective!!?

29 November - Picking Coffee and Doing the Washing!


Chilling out at my adopted Kenya families place taking chai and then picking coffee. A lesson in how to know when they are ready etc.



In this photo the green ones are not ready, the red ones are great. The white beans are what appears when you remove the soft outer. These are then dried before roasting. Check out my "1st June" Blog for the full process of hand making coffee from the tree to the cup. I have added these photos to that blog give the complete process.


This photo is an example of daily life in a typical homestead in rural Central Province. This is 13 year old Anne doing the washing outside in the mud. Using about 4 buckets to soak, wash, rinse 1 and rinse 2. All water has to be collected in 20 litre jerry cans from the river 500m way. Washing occurs most days and requires around 4-5 jerry cans for each wash for each family. In addition water needs to be collected for cooking and washing. Just imagine back home no water from the tap and no electricity…. Just imagine……