I have added photos to the blogs from 12-18th. I unfortunately do not have time to add this weeks blogs. I am away on 3 days of motorbike training soon so will post the next blogs after that.
Hope all is good at home?
Thursday 24 November 2011
Sunday 20 November 2011
Sunday 20th November
Editorial note: Simon's accomodation location has no broadband facility at the present time, so the blogs "12th to 18th November" do not, at the moment, include the interesting photographs. Simon should be in Nairobi later this week and will [hopefully] arrange to insert them (CD).
Friday 18th November 2011
Well the end of an amazing week and here I am sat in my home typing this to the light of a Kerosene lamp as the electricity is off once again. Luckily my laptop battery was charged at work.
Over the last week, the trainees have organised today. They each contributed to a pot of cash which bought all the food they needed. They planned the timing and went shopping for all the food. Arriving at 6am to light the fires in the kitchen and start the prep etc. I arrived at 8am and the chai was ready. I was greeted with a steaming cup and lots of smiles. The trainees were looking forward to laughing at a mzungo trying to cook chapattis!! I was called into the kitchen and together with an able colleague (the boys were only trusted with making the chapatti dough or peeling and making tea J), with, in total 14kg of flour in two big pans, we made around 200 chapattis.
Making Chapattis
Peeling hundreds of spuds
Meanwhile there was much peeling and chopping. I handed over my camera so they could have a bit of fun with that and the photos here are a selection of the 300 they took and we had impromptu slideshows through the day as they wanted to see the fruits of their labour. All were keen to have a disc of the photos but few if any have a computer. Internet cafes, using photo printing shops and sharing of computers is common though. Elevenses was a chapatti and more chai. Then, more chatting in the shade of a tree, much singing in the kitchen etc, etc.
Meat Prep
No chimney!!
I did a little work during the morning putting the finishing touches to the marketing docs to be printed tomorrow when I am in Thika and so I can get Isaacs final comments and feedback from the team.
After increasingly louder music and dancing etc in the assembly hall, finally by about half two the feast was ready. The assembly room had been made into a “banquet suite” a few speeches, a quick inter subject competition, grace and then finally food. More chapattis, stew (beef, potatoes and veg + a shredded veg mix) and bananas. More games a quiz and speeches. Including a request out of the blue for me to make a speech!! Thanks Isaac!
The banquet
Anyway all had a great day and the Trainees did a fantastic job organising it. I was handed a pot with more stew for my dinner and more chapattis. Not that I will be hungry again for a week J.
They asked me to stand there honest!!
The trainees in action
Ditto
The trainees in action
Ditto
On the way home I stopped to see Phillip the butcher nearest to the Poly. Simon one of the Instructors was with me and insisted I go round the back to see Kenyan sausage being made. Up until that point I was quite keen. I love black pudding etc., etc., and felt it would be great. Seeing what goes into it in gory reality however has probably put me off it for a long time. After all, not sure I would want to see black pudding being made - but I do love it.
Blimey – just had the biggest insect beastie yet fly in and to make matters worse I have not yet got my chairs so could not use them to fight it off!! A good Andy Murray smash with a Rough Guide to Kenya stunned it enough for me to beat it with a stick!! Been pretty lucky on that front so far and also avoided being bitten. Better not speak too soon though J.
Wednesday & Thursday 16th & 17th November 2011
Pretty standard day at work, usual greetings on the way to work and met up with Dorcas en-route to work so walked the last 2 km with her, which was good to get to know her a bit better. She has been with IYP about 3 years and teaches tailoring and dress making. Her husband works in Nairobi during the week and travels home at weekends. I begin to get to know the institution a bit better today.
They have had around 25-30 students enrolled each year for the last few years and want to grow that to around 50/year. The exams that lead up to Poly are sat in early December and the results come out at the end of December. So trainees do not know their grades until 2-3 weeks before first terms start date. This does not give much time for the trainees, nor much certainty of income etc. This year we are going to go round the schools and other events in advance presenting the advantages and courses etc., offered by IYP in a bid to increase numbers to 35-40 this year and then to 50 next year.
Simon K the Electronics chap and I have been chatting re culture of UK v Kenya and got onto cuisine. He then offered to help me to cook a traditional Kenyan stew. We stopped at one of the local “shopping centres” [photo next week]. Think stalls at the side of the road etc., [not Arndale centre Manchester!!]. Back at my place we set to work and used most of the pans and plates etc., in my humble abode, and I learn how to cook ugari (maise flour and water which forms a large part of the staple diet of Kenyans and is very cheap but filling). Feeling very full Simon left before dark and the rest of the evening was pretty normal. For security reasons neither I not the instructors like to be out after dark. So once night falls I eat, check there is water in the WC cistern, fill the bucket for the morning, boil water to wash up, etc then settle down to do a little work, read a book or watch a film on my laptop. Sleep by 10pm.
17 Nov – Thurs
Board of Governors, councillor and Senior Chief come to meet me at the Poly today!! Due at 10am. Chairman (Michael – the one that has a carpentry workshop and made my bed etc etc) turns up on time) he has worked with the English and other Europeans etc. The first BOG member turns up at around 20 minutes past. The Councillor around 10.45 and the Senior Chief around 11.45. Need to get used to Kenya time. ( there is no Verb in Kiswahilli for “to be late”!!)
The SC was one of the founding members of the Poly so is right behind it. He seems a good man and apparently is very good at making things happen. He seemed to get on well with me, and had some good ideas and thoughts about the direction and priorities of the Institution.
He also asked if everything was OK with me generally and re my accommodation etc. He then said – if I ever have any issues re security to let him know and he will arrange for things to be “rectified”. It is good to have the powerful men on my side!!
The area I live in is the main Kikuyu tribe and Kikuyu is the local language. I apparently have to at least have a passing knowledge of that in addition to Kiswahili!! One at a time I think really as Kiswahili is taking a little time although the Instructors seem impressed with my progress so far which is what matters.
Back home I go shopping in glorious sunshine around Kandara as it is market day. I meet a few of the local “characters” who chat to me and we entertain the locals for a while. Slowly people are beginning to know who I am and what I am doing here. In time I will be stared at less [hopefully] as the novelty of a mzungu living in the village wears off.
There is no putting it off any longer, washing day has arrived. I collect water from the water but down the track, boil a couple of pans (suffurias) and then fill the “bath thing” and set to hand washing. As with most things I do at the Orphanage there are shortly a couple of “helpers” join me. All is complete fairly quickly and I hang shirts etc on the line and leave socks and smalls in my house (out of respect for the young ladies who are my neighbours). Then dinner which is a pack up from the Poly. Jane the cook is trying to fatten me up a bit!!. Then settle down to watch a film. Heavy rain overnight so clothes drenched in the morning but dry by the evening.
The climate here is great. Currently described as a cold season it drops to around 12-sh at night and varies between 25 and 30 during the day. This is the short rains season so we often get between 30mins and 2 hours of heavy rain each day but usually at night which is great as I am at home by then.
Tuesday 15th November 2011
Day 2 at the Youth Polytechnic
Getting into a routine for the day now. Alarm goes off, boil pan of water for washing. Wash via a bowl wash standing in the bathroom. Whilst washing - boil filtered water for coffee, go to tap to fill bucket with water. Boil another pan to set the filter going for the evening. 7.15am set off walking 45 mins to work. Saying many “Habari ya asubuhi” and “Nzuri sana” to the very friendly and smiley locals. On the way back from work buy fresh fruit and veg for the evening. 4 bananas 20 shillings (140KS to the £) mangos around 10KS etc.
Met Isaac on the way to work – pick up garden fork for fixing along the way at the metalwork class. A real life practical for the trainees.
I get a pretty good dose of Kiswahilli today as there are a few staff in the staff room which is a good way of breaking down any barriers too.
Later I have a walk around the classes to gain a better understanding of how things work, etc. In the afternoon, Isaac is away and I spend the time getting to know the staff better.
Monday 14th November 2011
Got up and met Isaac at the entrance. Forgot to allow for Kenya time so waited 20 mins of saying Habari to many people and being stared at a lot etc, etc. Met a slightly stressed and very sweaty Isaac (at this point I had not realised he walks 1.5hrs each way to work come rain or shine)
Walk in great heat 1km to the next Matatu stop. Then catch a Matatu the last 2km. Matatu full and sauna like but the locals are cold so all windows stay shut. Luckily it is only a short trip as Isaac stops us early to meet the Chairman (him of the carpentry shop that made the bed)first time I have met him and he is a lovely generous spirited chap and very welcoming. After a tour of his workshop all 3 of us walk to the Poly.
Ithiru Youth Polytechnic is about 500m of the main road. It is in quite large grounds and the main building is a pretty good by local standards with teaching spaces on two levels. There are 3 timber pit latrines (Boys/Girls and Staff) a timber kitchen structure, a part complete building and a part complete garage area that is an extension to the main building. I will be sharing an office with Isaac the manager. The staff room we pass through to get to Isaacs office.
Main building
Kitchen
I am introduced to the other staff, 3 of which I met outside the supermarket on Saturday and luckily for me I managed to remember their names!! The three I have not met are Catherine and Dorcas who run the tailoring and dressmaking course and Jane to lovely cook. Jane very quickly takes it upon herself to fatten me up a bit (that will please mother!!).
Monday and Friday are assembly days. Today it has been delayed for me!! So after the introductions and a brief tour, I am introduced to the Trainees. I am welcomed by a Kenyan welcome (Karibu) dance and very flattering speeches. Then I have to practice my Kiswahilli to an audience for the first time and get a round of applause for at least attempting it (a few sniggers too so I guess I, at least, need to work on the accent!). Very humbled we return to the staff room for a quick staff meeting.
Te rest of the day is spent chatting with Isaac, the chairman and staff to get a clearer picture of the place and the people.
Lunch is provided and most days is a traditional mixed bean dish which apparently can play havoc with digestive systems not used to it. Quite filling too so note to self – ask for a small portion next time!
I leave at 2.30 with Simon K the Electrical Engineering tutor who walks home with me to fix the two sockets and bathroom light. (Hence how I now have juice in my laptop to write this diary J). On the way he shows me his little flat that he stays in during the week due to a long commute. I am also introduced to one of his former students who has his own business now a short walk from the Poly.
Market day in Kandara so we walk the 45 mins there to source the parts etc. In next to no time we have the bits and SK has all up and running. After a brief Chai stop he is on his way. I apply liberal amount of some newly purchased ant powder which should see off the little blighters that form a steady trial across my “lounge”.
Then out to collect water etc. A quick kick about with some of the boys from the orphanage which is a giggle to all involved. Off to buy eggs (Miyai cookoo). Then cook it on the stove to puzzled stares. An omelette in Kenya is breakfast food apparently and never for an evening? On re-entering the Orphanage, little Joe runs up and holds my hand for the whole of the walk back to my room – bless J. They are all great kids, so polite and all speak English. Final test of the day, electricity goes out and I am finishing my stuff to the light of the kerosene lamp.
Sunday 13th November 2011
12/11/11 – First Full Day in Kandara
Initially yesterday I was a little shocked by the reality of the accommodation. However once I cleared the spiders and cobwebs, got my things sorted and especially after bleaching the bathroom things felt much better. Opening the door in the morning to see the above view, everything came into perspective.
I sorted a few things out, collected water, boiled water and topped up the filter etc., etc. I then went into Kandara for a haircut. No electricity yet so the clippers I brought are useless. Anyway at 40 shillings a cut (150 to the pound) I do not think the clippers will get much use!! I walked up the high street to many stares and one lady stopped and said “are you still here?”. I guess they do not see many “Mzungu’s” not being on the tourist trail. We chatted for a bit and she welcomed me to Kenya once she knew what I was doing there. I shook a few people’s hands who shouted across or stopped for a chat. The more people know me and why I am here the sooner the staring stops is my plan. The young chap in the barbers looked a little nervous when I entered. I am the first whitey hair cut he has done I guess. Whilst I am in the chair, people stop and stare in, some puzzled - some laughing. In the end the barber begins to enjoy the attention. A fine cut later and I continue on my travels to buy a modem and sim-card, plus a few other provisions.
Back to the pad I settle down to a book and a coffee. I kept my head down for a while as there were a lot of visitors (10 cars full – potential and current funders, etc). Then Mary from next door sticks her head round the door and introduces me to Kirsty (a volunteer at the Orphanage from a couple of years ago). She now works for Vision Africa (who support the orphanage) in Nairobi covering 14 Orphanages etc. Check out the website for VA (http://www.vision-africa.org/) and you can click on an option for Kandara Children’s Home. Kirsty is here with her Mum and Dad (Morag and Iain) who have galvanised their village to be major fundraisers for the elements of the place. This includes the veg patch in front of my home which is a memorial garden for a former keen gardener from the village who left some money for the Children’s home.
A budding photographer behind the camera
Is washing up so popular?
Later I went for a walk out of Kandara to another “shopping centre” in the other direction. Whilst walking amongst the stalls Dan introduced himself, quite a chatty one he was too. We walked further out of town and I was invited to tea with his family etc etc. I had to turn round however and get back before dark. (plus I had finally worked out he was sozzled) he left me at the junction back at the market area and I headed back. I cooked dinner (rice, butternut squash, onion and tomato with a few herbs). Whilst washing up I noticed I had an audience in the doorway. (open due to the heat). See the photo above. It is great living here J.
Saturday 12th November 2011
First Day of reality after a week of having a slightly spoilt intro to volunteering at the Grace House Resort. What a fantastic group of people especially Fred who really pushed us with our Kiswahili. Some progressed more than others!!!
Anyway, Saturday started early with us setting off in a taxi to the Matatu station. Before leaving there was a final breakfast with the team of volunteers and partner representatives. Smiles of excitement, apprehension, and trepidation especially those travelling to more remote locations. Then lots of hugs, and a presentation of flowers to Lucy our very patient Kiswahili teacher.
Isaac and I got in the taxi with Christine (from
Arriving at Thika we took my luggage to the supermarket and left it with security - a chap sat on a stool who seemed to pay little attention to my worldly belongings (luckily they came to no harm whilst I shopped). We then shopped for the full spectrum of my needs for the two years – mattress, bedding, crockery, cutlery, pans, utensils, buckets, bowls etc. 20,000 Kenyan shillings later (where was my club card!!). Isaac then negotiated with the supermarket to take us to Kandara. “Wait a short time and we will pick you up outside”. Note to self - “short time” = 2 hours.
It was good though as we met three of the instructors from Ithiru Youth Polytechnic – Moses (Building & Technology), James (Motor Vehicle Studies: might be a helpful chap when my pikipiki plays up!!) and another Simon who is the Electrical Engineering Instructor. All very nice and friendly people who I amused with my attempts at Kiswahili!! The van finally arrived but then said “wait”, followed by “I just need to got to .… for 5 minutes . Note to self “5 minutes” = 30 minutes. Eventually we were on our way. One of the reasons for the original delay was that there had been an accident on one of the two roads to Kandara. We set of on the other road only to be stuck in a jam after 10 minutes. Static for another 10 minutes: the locals then start driving the wrong way down the opposite carriageway into the oncoming traffic[!]. Much hooting and flashing of lights but no accidents. Luckily just as we were to follow that option, our lanes cleared.
On to a carpentry place to pick up my newly modified bed (6ft x 4 ft bed originally now extended to 7ft to fit me – mattress still 6ft but at least I do not bang my head on the headboard). Then onto the Vision Africa Kandara Children’s Home.
Orphanage Entrance
The view from my front door – Banana Trees!!
We were greeted by lots of running kids some smiling and waving some puzzled by this Mzungo (European or white person) arriving. There are 80 kids at the orphanage ranging from about 2 months to 18. Irene the manager greeted us and the kids helped bring my kit to my house.
Samuel putting the finishing touches to my bed
Samuel putting the finishing touches to my bed
The bed in-situ, also my “wardrobe”
My home is in a block of four studio-like homes for older kids and staff. Mine is about 3.5m x 4.5m plus an en-suite shower/wc area. Specification to VSOJ had been electricity, running water, flush toilet, wardrobe, chairs, desk, bed, etc., etc. Reality was a bed and a coffee table, 2 x sockets (neither working), no running water and the flush was possible if you fill the cistern up with water from a bucket first. Flexibility and Adaptability are the key reasons we were selected as volunteers……. J
Isaac took me shopping for consumables and showed me around town, introducing me to a few people. Then back to set up. We had forgotten a few things, but I gave Isaac his leave to spend time with his family and then braved a solo trip to Kandara.
KandaraThere was much staring and mumbling of Mzungu as I walked around the town. Much smiling too so all seemed friendly. A few came up to me or beckoned me across for a hand shake and introduction. Even given my limited Kiswahili they were impressed. I always tried to reply in Kiswahili even if they spoke to me in English. This was very much appreciated. My tactic was to tell as many people as possible that I was here for 2 years and not a tourist. Hopefully the word will spread and I will be less of an oddity walking around the streets. Not seen any other Mzungu since leaving Thika, which in many ways is good.
Back at home I unpacked and started to settle in. Dispensed with all the spiders and cobwebs, strange brown trails on the wall 1cm wide x .5 cm high dust like trails that must come from some sort of slug or snail thing – not seen one yet. Trail of tiny ants will take a little more perseverance but they keep themselves to themselves so far and only travel along one wall away from me so they are OK for now.
My kitchen/dining room
The ensuite – inc “bath” aka 'bowl'
The ensuite – inc “bath” aka 'bowl'
Met me neighbours – on one side is Mary (16 or 17), Cecilia (Mary’s Sister about 13) and very cute Hope (Mary’s daughter about 2). I have met Lucy too but not sure if she has others in her house. I am yet to meet the person in the other house of my block but hope to on Sunday.
Thursday 10 November 2011
Wednesday 9 November 2011
Nairobi Update
All going well here. Have met my employer Isaac today and he seems a good chap. I am travelling with him via one of the legenday Kenyan Matatu to Kandara where I will be living in an Orphanage complex. My work will be at Ithiru about 3km down the road. Lots of training and workshops until then. I have some photos to post but just about to nip out to the partners dinner where we mingle with the partner organisation reps etc. Today and the next two days are all about working together with the partner reps and getting to know each others expectations etc. More later
Saturday 5 November 2011
Arrived in Kenya
Friday flight was long but smooth including immigration, etc and we arrived at the hotel just after 11pm local time having left my Sister’s pub at 6.30 am UK time. We had a lovely welcome and dinner was waiting for us. The hotel is great and quite a treat really. After that bed. Nice surprise that there is free and reasonably reliable wifi at the hotel so I could let the family know I arrived safely.
Anyway after a long day on Friday I had a great nights sleep and then a hearty breakfast. The VSO team keep calling this week a "soft landing" we are certainly being spoilt compared to what I was expecting at the Hotel but I am not complaining. Today's sessions started at 10am with the usual training type “getting to know you” exercises, etc for the first hour. Then there was a run through of what to expect and an information pack. This was followed by an initial 15 minute security briefing covering the recent grenade attacks and the issues with the militants etc. All this just reinforced the general traveling position of just being street wise and aware of your surroundings. At tea break I there was a selection of drinks but I was offered "brewed tea" from a flask. Always being one to try the local food and drink and I must admit i was suspecting it was just pre made tea i went for it. It was actually a sweet tea with ginger and masala which sounds odd but was very tasty :)
The final morning session was 1 and a half hours of just us and 3 current volunteers (no VSO Jitolee staff) they were extremely open and very helpful about the reality of volunteering both from the positive and the negative perspective, highlighting mistakes they had made and some of the great experiences they had had. After another heart lunch with a white chocolate cheesecake dessert Mmmmmmm it was a trip into Nairobi for orientation and to experience a bit of Kenya outside the hotel enclosure. It is quite modern and you can get most things you can get in the UK. I did not notice too many chains like Starbucks etc but there were local versions etc. Sorted out a Kenyan SIM and had my first iced cappuccino which was surprisingly good.
On then to the volunteers flat to sample VSO Nairobi accommodation. They did stress that those outside Nairobi (me!) will have "very different accommodation". This one was a simple but fine 2 bed flat with access to the roof for great views over the city. Then an entertaining journey back through Nairobi rush hour - the bus driver had a "positive" driving style!! but he got us home safely somehow :). More food and then across the road to Trackerz bar for a swift one before bed........
The plan for the rest of the week includes Swahili lessons all day tomorrow (well starting at 11am anyway!!). Finance, security and Health on Monday (starting at 8.30 for the rest of the week) with more Swahili in the afternoon. Tuesday - more Swahili, social and cultural expectations, and a visit to the VSO Jitolee office.
The rest of the week is very much placement specific and includes meeting our employers and agreeing the 3 way partnership agreement etc. There is also a shopping session where we buy mattresses, bedding, pans and other living essentials. Saturday I am taken out to my new home.
Fun bit of the day came when i was pulled to one side to be told "Simon - I need to speak to you about your accommodation..........."
Here we go I thought - this could be fun........
Luckily it was a positive change. The original proposal had been to put me in accommodation where i was sharing bathroom facilities with 6 other homes...... VSO vetoed that and I am now in self-contained accommodation within a school complex/compound so i share the school security. Still not too much clearer as to what exactly it is but that is part of the fun :)
All good so far (but I am very much in the honeymoon period, reality starts on Saturday.....) and I have to say the training seems pretty comprehensive and is certainly well organised. More later in the week and hopefully some photos from Kenya.
All good so far (but I am very much in the honeymoon period, reality starts on Saturday.....) and I have to say the training seems pretty comprehensive and is certainly well organised. More later in the week and hopefully some photos from Kenya.
Tuesday 1 November 2011
The final leg in the UK
Finished work last week and left Newcastle. I stopped off in Huddersfield before venturing south to Huntingdon for some fine home cooking over the weekend with my parents. I now am homeless, car less and life is in 2 rather large bags (oh and a storage container in Yorkshire!!). My travels have now brought me to my Sister's pub The One Tun on Goodge Street in London where I am staying until I fly out on Friday moring to Nairobi. I have a few of the boys I used to work with coming round tonight and the "SOG's" coming round tomorrow for a final farewell. Family gathering again on Thursday. Then I can put it off no longer time to fly out to Kenya. I have talked about doing this for a long time (as many of you will know) and finally it is becoming reality. Thanks to all at Home Group and Galliford Try for the words of encouragement (and fine food and beer) as I left last week. Thanks also to everyone else for your support too. Watch this space to read about how i get on.
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