19-25 March - More Photos, No Water and a Chapati Mountain!

19-22 March – After the excitement of last week a fairly normal week but I discovered that the reason there ha been no water for a while in the Orphanage kitchen was that the bill had not been paid. (Note - The orphanage is run by the council it is just the baby unit that is run by Vision Africa after the council took it back from VA a few years ago). There are about 6 very large tanks around the site that collect rainwater from the buildings. However due to a lack of rain and a delayed rainy season these were running out. By Thursday we were down to the last one!! By Friday we ran out. My normal 50m walk for water was about to become ¾ mile to the river!! It is amazing how little water you can get away with when you have to carry it that far. However I cannot complain as this is what a reasonable percentage of the subsistence farming locals do a few times a day.

Luckily the sight of a line of orphans walking backwards and forwards to the river seems to have had the right impact and by Saturday we have water in the vats again. Briefly I also had it in the shower but not for long. My running water works about 2 days a month so I only get the treat of a cold shower on those days if I notice it is working in time. Bucket washes a becoming second nature now.

Wednesday after work I stopped off at the Kibe shamba (farm smallholding) and chilled out with the family under the shade of a tree drinking chai and eating fresh mango from another nearby tree. The kids were sent to shake the tree the mangos fell out and I was eating it within 30 seconds of it falling from the tree. Can’t get fresher than that.

Thursday night I had a Kiswahili lesson and afterwards picked up some kale to have a bash at the traditional Kenyan dish of Sukuma Wiki – (food for the week) this consists of chopped kale, tomatoes and onion. It is normally eaten with ugali. However, as the left overs turn to concrete in the pan and is a pig to wash up it is not worth making for one so I have rice instead. For a first attempt it dod not taste too bad.

Friday was the open day of Kiranga Polytechnic our nearest and much larger neighbouring Polytechnic. We are planning an open day ourselves later in the year so it was a good experience to see what worked and what did not. Due to start at 10 I took the judgement to turn up around 11 and met James my colleague from Ithiru YP for chai and samosas beforehand. This was a good call because the show did not start until 11.30 when we went on a tour and had some impressive presentations from very mature students. This was followed by the ceremonial planting of 3 trees. For some reason I was given the great privilege of planting a tree!! There were many dignitaries who probably had helped the institution more but I was honoured and the tree was planted and watered appropriately.

Then came the speeches starting around 1pm. Lunch followed the speeches and as the latter did not finish until around 4pm the samosas were very useful in stopping me passing out. Again I was called upon to make a speech. Trying to provide a lead to others I kept mine brief but managed a sprinkling of Kikuyu (my two and only words!!) and a little more Kiswahili which impressed the 100% Kenyan crowd.

The day also gave me the opportunity to catch up with some of the VSO Nairobi office staff and also the CDF (Community Development Fund) rep who I am about to apply for funding to.

Being a long day and having walked the 5km in the morning I took a piki bike (motorbike taxi) back. I found out that there was about to be a police crack-down on the Piki riders, so I was lucky to catch him they were about to all call it a day. (The check was for insurance, licences etc – reassuring that there will be none running that night!!).

Saturday I was back at the Kibe shamba and joined the ladies on a new area of land they had rented to grow arrowroot and sukuma wiki (Kenyan for kale). The men do not tend to work on the farm. I took my turn with the hoe and helped to finish the digging off to earn my chai and mango!! Having soft English hands my 30 minutes of effort yielded 4 blisters, whereas the ladies had been working for 2 hours in the hot sun. I flaked out under the tree back at the houses and after chai enjoyed a hearty lunch of sukuma wiki and ugali (at least I was not washing the pan!!)

Rolling out the chapatis only 180 to go!!

Keeping the fire going

Paul taking a well earned rest from the heat and smoke of the kitchen

Inside the kitchen - the smoke and heat!! But still smiling :)

FEED ME!!

Back home later that evening I was asked is the kids could borrow my chapatti pan. They were massive number for that nights supper. I popped up to join the fun an play with the camera. These are just a few of the shots.

Joseph the groundsman and livestock carer

Lucy

Working up an appetite before the feast

Watching you watching us

Another fall from a tree!!

Sunday - took chai at breakfast with the kids (see photos below) then spent the day chilling out doing photo course homework, washing, messing about with the kids and relaxing. Late afternoon I will be going to the “Kandara stadium” (AKA local recreation gound) to watch someof the older lads here play in a regional league team. 

Terressa enjoying her chai

Moses, Lucy, Terressa and Jacob - taking chai

17/18h March 2012 – 4 Wedding Photos, One Mzungu and a Riot!!

Andrea and Laura 

The Home Made Banner all their own work!!

Saturday 17^th St Patrick’s Day – Andrea and Irish volunteer from Nairobi had organised a gathering at a “Irish Bar” in Lavington to watch the Wales v France 6 Nations game and then the England Ireland game. Following those two there was a live band playing Irish and UK classics. A great evening was had and some of the new volunteers came out too which was a great opportunity to get to know the wider volunteer clan in Nairobi.

Sunday 18^th 

A chill out morning chatting on the veranda of the Mountain View volunteer house. Then at lunchtime I met the son of the Bride from the wedding the week before and he was going to assist e to get on the right Matatu etc and escort me to their house. I had put the wedding photos on a CD, printed the best 4 out and was dropping them off. They had insisted I stay for a meal too J. Peter was great fun and also said we had to stop off to sort something out for his football team on the way. This turned out to be a meeting with a local businessman, the local councillor and two youth football teams for the presentation of 2 new strips (provided by the businessman). After the formalities I was asked to make a speech too!! I bluffed my way through it and even used 50% kiswahili which got a laugh. Not sure whether it was for what I said or how I pronounced it but who cares…….  

Then it was round to the newly weds house where I received a hearty welcome and a huge meal. I found out that the groom was to sort out someone with a camera for the wedding. At the last minute the chap sent his apologies and the groom had forgotten he was the only one with a camera. Had I not randomly turned up at the wedding the week before there would have been no photos of the big day at all. He was therefore particularly appreciative and my new best friend!!

I got a matatu back into Nairobi and was strolling down Tom Mboya Street as I have many times. I did vaguely notice sounds of a football game going on in the bars etc……… What I did not know was that the two most bitter rivals in Kenyan football were playing in Nairobi and the game was about to finish. I was halfway between the two Matatu stops when the whistle went and the bars spilled out. Within seconds gangs were chasing others and fights started everywhere and I was right in the middle and being 6ft 4 and the only apparent mzungu in the area I was a “little concerned” luckily I was not wearing anything resembling the colours of either team so was apparently invisible. They were  focussed only on beating the opposition fans. Regardless I along with many other innocent bystanders took a side street to a quieter parallel road (luckily by now I know my way around pretty well). Eventually with a few discrete detours I made it to my Matatu. The first one was full and set off as I got there. The next one therefore was to wait until full. I sat in the front on the corner of a street. Soon I heard the chants of about 2-300 of the opposition fans coming up the main road towards me. In the wing mirror I could see about 50 of the home fans coming up the side street perfectly timed to meet where I was on the Matatu!!! What to do……. I stayed put (there was no way I was getting out into that lot so I took my chance and hoped we would blend in!!). Chaos erupted fairly spectacularly all around us, punches thrown, random weapons picked up and used, stones thrown over and around us (miraculously none hit the vehicle!!). During this the Matatu became full and the driver decided to make his escape through the riot. Driving through the fighting I noticed passers by desperately trying to get into shops and then about 10m from me a security guard panicked and having a gun started firing indiscriminately as we passed. People were scattering everywhere and on man dropped suddenly having being hit. Was he punched or shot I have no idea but the timing seemed to indicate shot! Less than 15m from me. (I found out later apparently the security guards only have rubber bullets??).

Eventually we made it out of Nairobi and apart from the occasional chanting and small fire there was little trouble encountered for the rest of the journey to Thika. Normally I don’t travel at night for security reasons but due to the delays I was hitting Thika in the dark and had to walk across town to get my next Matatu home. Luckily I know my way well and having passed through Thika most weekends I know most of the people around the bus stop for Kandara. I was well looked after and there was no further trouble in Thika that I noticed. Finally I made it home, called Mum to say Happy Mother’s day and did not mention the entertainment of the evening so as not to spoil her day by worrying her too much........ ooops she reads this - sorry Mum!

15/16 March - 4 Fights and a Pitch Invasion

Thursday 15^th March is the day of the previously postponed Youth Polytechnic (YP) District Sports Day. Our transport was supposed to pick up outside the orphanage at 07.30 so I am ready and waiting. I have liberally plastered in suntan cream for a rare full day outside. Other trainees are there and by 8am all the expected people for this pick up have arrived. By 08.15 I call the our Games Master who says they are “on the way”. 45 minutes later (for a 4km journey) the cattle truck (I am not joking!!) finally arrives – welcome to Kenya time!!, I could have had another hour or so of sleep!! 30+ of us stood up in the back of a truck for the remaining 4km down a dirt track. Great fun and good for the balance. 

 All the other teams had come by bus or Matatu but we made the biggest impression!!

The Cattle Truck - Man Utd should try this??

After a 2 hour delay whilst we waited for someone to organise the playing schedule and refereeing timetable etc, we finally started about 10.30 (planned start was 8am). Anyway although forward planning is not fashionable, the ability to pull a rabbit out of a hat and everything to work in the end is quite impressive!! So around 4-500 trainees commenced a highly competitive tournament of Football, Volley ball and Netball.

The Girls Netball and Football Squads

Substitute

I did not realise how serious the competition was taken until it got going and shortly afterward the first fight started. Then an hour or so later there was a pitch invasion of about 100 supporters of one YP disagreeing with the referees decision and wanting to “have a calm rational debate about the matter” Alternatively known as chase him off the pitch brandishing sticks and stones.

      

    










                                                  

                                    Dedication!

              - Check out the stud plates in the boot -

            imagine what the soles of his feet are like!! 

                          But he still played on!

There was even a fight at the volleyball. The netball being all girls was completed with the grace and self-control that ladies display……

Despite the over-enthusiasm that manifested itself in a few minor incidents the day was not marred by these and was an fantastic success and great for morale and team building for both our Trainees and Instructors. Although we did not progress to the next round the YP’s that beat us were significantly larger and therefore had a far greater pool of talent – that was our excuse anyway J

Friday was a normal day but a little slow given that the Sports day was a 12 hour day and some of the boys had played 3 x 90 minute football games and 3 volleyball matches. I was tired and all I had done was watched from the shade of a tree and tried not to take a siesta!!

29 Feb-13 March - Wedding, a Broken Arm and Football

Sorry about the title Mum :) ! Thought it would grab the attention - luckily not my arm.

29 Feb – 2 March – Pretty normal week. Thursday 1^st was staff performance appraisal day so the Polytechnic was shut again. A day working from home and enjoying daily life a the orphanage and in Kandara.

The weekend was spent around Kandara too and I took the opportunity to play with the camera and get some more photos of the great kids having so much fun with so little. See for yourself in the photos - refer to the previous blog post too.

Newton - escaped from the Baby Unit with his Breakfast!

With no school on a Saturday it is chores. 

This terrace and steps get cleaned daily with towels and buckets!

A sheet and some rope and you have a hammock - who needs John Lewis!

  

W/C 5 March

Having had a couple of quiet weeks things seem to have got busier again.

Monday, trying to cram a weeks stuff into a day and a half. I am spending most of the week in Nairobi. The next intake of volunteers arrived 3 March and I offered to give the rural view of volunteering. When I arrived the existing volunteers were all Nairobi based and they have a very different experience.

Tuesday 6^th - Before I set off to Nairobi I had a meeting with Songa Mbele who are a micro finance charity in Kandara who support women to set up finance groups. I had spotted them when I was at the internet café in their office block and thought they may be of benefit to our graduates. We had a good chat and they are coming to the Polytechnic in May to present to the Trainees. Both boys and girls will be invited as raising awareness of micro finance initiatives and groups won’t do any harm.

Then it was in a Matatu to Nairobi via Thika. Once in Nairobi Ihad to get a bus to the hotel. It being around 5 I had the famous rush hour to cope with. Whilst on the bus I got a call from a couple of existing volunteers saying they were at a pub near the hotel and it was happy hour till 7pm. I dropped my bags at the hotel and was there! A couple of the newbies turned up too which was nice.

A night in a hotel with a real WC and warm shower was a novelty. I am pretty used to the squat toilet and morning bucket wash at my house now though and this modern stuff is beginning to feel strange rather than back to normality.

Wednesday 7^th – Breakfast with the new volunteers then a catch up with Erin (existing volunteer from Western Kenya and the VSO chap we were co-presenting with that afternoon. I offered to spice up a very wordy presentation with some photos and then we are set for 2 hours of “3-way Partnership” this is the link and working relationship between VSO, The partner organisation and the volunteer. We were mainly there to add real experiences to the points raised and then answer the many questions.

The new intake

The evening was spent chatting to the new volunteers and their many queries – just like we were 4 months ago!!

Thursday 8^th – after breakfast Nicole and I were supporting a VSO chap with his presentation on “Transparency and Governance”. He had not been in touch in advance so we felt we were just down for the Q&A at the end. 8.30 start. At 8.40 he had not turned up so I turned to Nicole and said “shall we wing it? Luckily I had the presentation from our training on my laptop. Using that background we managed to get a few laughs and keep them awake for 2 hours. Using real experiences of corruption etc from speaking to other volunteers helped to make it real. I did however use some examples of the UK to just to show it was not just a Kenya problem.

A chill out for a while before our 2pm session which was 3 existing volunteers and just the new volunteers (no VSO staff or partner organisation representatives) so they could ask anything they were not comfortable asking. We also shared our experiences of what happened after leaving training. We had very varied placements and experiences in the first few months so it was a good mix. I don’t think we scared them too much and we did add we were having a great time and mostly were thinking of extending.

The only real problem with the training is they are in a bit of a sanitised bubble and after 5 days everyone just wants to get stuck into the placement.

There is a Chinese lady (Judy) starting at a polytechnic near to mine so it was good to meet her before she travels out Kandara way.

Friday 9^th – finished with training so I dropped into the /VSO office and was handed a parcel slip to add to the one I had with me. Unfortunately it was some time since I had been told I had a parcel and on reading the slip I noticed that they charged you for storage. I worked out the combined bill was 4-5000 kenyan shillings –circa £35 – for storage plus any customs charges. I knew the contents and it was not worth that so I thought I would test my negotiation skills. I also had to go and sort out my full work permit and accompanied Meshak to the office to get this done first.  Much security at the office and we were not even allowed to linger outside the building. Probably had something to do with the bulky rucksack on my back!!

30 mins later I was officially allowed to work in Kenya. Then to the post office to pick up my permanent driving licence. Then to the parcel centre. “Closed” for lunch so Erin and I then decided to spoil ourselves with a burger and chips before returning to our respective placements and traditional Kenyan food. Erin set off back home and I returned to the post office. Expecting the worst I went to the first counter. My parcels were picked up and I was sent to the customs man to open them. I played the charity worker fundraiser for Kenyan youth card and he waived all customs charges on both parcels!!! Then to the post office official to tot up the storage. She spotted the customs chaps waiver and then let me off too so I just had 150 shillings on each parcel not the 5000 I was expecting. That paid for the burger anyway J.

The Thika superhighway is nearing completion now so the Friday rushhour was not it’s usual nightmare and I was home in an hour and a half. Home to open my last Christmas present and eat Chocolate and other goodies from home.   

Sat 10^th – A quiet day planned and I dropped by Jane's place to say hi. 

Guess what's for lunch!! 

Me with Grandma Kibe (101 years old!)                   Grandma Kibe looking more cool than me in                                                                               

                                                                                      my baseball cap and sunglasses

After and hour or so with the family I was told there was a wedding on next door and I was invited to join them. Luckily the goats had been slaughtered earlier in the day so I missed the blood but thankfully not the meat so shepherded via a fleeting introduction to the ladies to the men around the fire and meat. I was handed a lump of Kenya sausage on arrival. Then passed the real delicacy of the tongue of a goat. This is a great honour apparently and actually tasted OK. There was another live goat in a pen nearby looking a little nervous but I think she was safe for the day at least!!

This was a traditional Kikuyu tribe wedding which was quite a spectacle. The bride and groom cut a leg of goat rather than a cake. Then Uji (porridge) is brought and fed in a special cup to the groom by the bride. The groom has to pretend not to want it and the other women help the bride force him to have it. Then he returns the favour. The bride it then passed from one lady to another to be carried on their backs like a baby. This I was told is to bring the luck of child birth to the couple. Then more singing and dancing etc. I was the only Mzungu and was made very welcome. I had the only camera too so gave it to the daughter of the groom to take photos and record the day which they were very grateful for.

The Bride and Groom cut the goats leg 

The Girls shake it!

It was dark by the time we finished and I had a 4km walk down and unlit dirt track. I was escorted half way and then was alone. Luckily a Piki arrived (motorbike taxi) and I decided that was the lesser of the two risks and was safely home in no time.

Sunday 11^th – There were rumours of the Vice President of Kenya coming to the orphanage but by 3.30 pm I decided he probably wasn’t and dropped by Kiranga Polytechnic to check Judy was settling in OK. All was  good and she was being well looked after by the team there.

It was falling off from this very position that little Kuria (on top) broke that left elbow!

Monday 12^th – Took Chai with the orphanage team before setting off to work. I was pointed to little Kuria (about 6 years old) who had hurt his arm on Sunday. On inspection it was pretty obvious the elbow was broken. He was being very brave but was clearly in a lot of pain. There was a doctors strike so no chance of any treatment for a couple of days. This along with two extreme stomach upsets were examples of the suffering of the innocent and vulnerable at times of industrial disputes.

Tuesday 13^th – luckily today Kuria manages after 48 hours Kuria was finally x-rayed and now sports a pot from his shoulder to his hand and his fantastic smile had thankfully returned.

In preparation for the inter polytechnic sports day we had a friendly today with a nearby very small polytechnic (just 20 students and only 2 classrooms that also double as office and store). We played football and volleyball. A fair crowd formed from the small town as they played in 30+ degrees some barefoot etc. Ithiru won the volleyball 2 games to one and the football 7-2 so it was a good day. Hopefully things will go the same way on Thursday!!

The Ithiru boys in Red v the barefoot neighbours

One of the locals keeping me company

The Ithiru Volleyball Team in action - or is it Ballet!!

The full line up from both Polytechnics

The girls netball team meanwhile were training back at the Poly.

Need to work on the smile for the photos!

Photos of a weekend at Kandara Orphanage

Finding a little peace at early morning Chai time

The girls having fun trying to throw a little one up for the photo

My little friends from the baby unit saying "BYYYEEEEE SIIIIIMMOOOONN" - Bless

Coming back to smiles like these make you forget any bad day

Yes one of the daily chores is cleaning the dirt road!

The boys showing off their successful passion fruit tree. Each child has been given an 8ft plot to look after to varying degrees of success but most have really taken it to heart.

I sit on this terrace among this lot and take chai in the morning and take some rays before going to work or chilling out at the weekend. Conslata (2nd from the left) is the cook. Works 6ish to 9ish 24 days on 6 days off for just over a pound a day! Wicked sense of humour and great patience with the kids.

Among the flowers by the Vision Africa volunteer house

Showing off light sticks as bracelets that a friend sent over for the kids.

When I said try throwing him up in the air for the photo I had not expected this far! Did they catch him......?

One of many items of discarded footwear

We tried to get 4 high but organising was like "herding cats" as a good friend used to say!! Will try again soon

20-28th Feb - Let there finally be light!!

20 Feb – Normal day today. Afternoon sessions at the Polytechnic have been revised to allow for additional games practice due to the impending inter-polytechnic competition Early March.

21 Feb – My birthday today I had received a few cards from home so opened them – half way to 90 as my Brother kindly reminded me!!! I was wished a hearty Happy Birthday by the Orphanage staff during chai and then set off to work. I had arranged for meat from the local butchers in Kabati to surprise the staff at the Polytechnic. It made a welcome enhancement from their Githeri. I chose not to take in Cakes as they are not good here!!.  I made sure there was a surplus so the cook could take some home for her family who do not normally get meat except at Christmas. In the evening I called family and friends.

22 Feb – Met the Chairman first thing to run through the minutes of the Board of Governors meeting. I was expecting some resistance to my more explicit minutes with clear actions and timelines but all was agreed for printing. This was followed by assisting to resolve a couple of staff issues then a staff meeting. We finished at 2 as we break today for mid-term holidays. Then home to do hand washing before a couple of days away.

23 Thurs – I decided to use the mid-term break to catch up on internet and charge my computer at the internet café in the morning (still no electricity!!) before setting off to Baraka Polytechnic near Muranga (about 50km away) to meet and stay with Tom (an American Volunteer doing similar work to me). Before setting off and whilst in Kandara I met a councillor who I had seen before and he offered to take me to the town hall to meet other members etc. I said I could not as I was in civi’s (t-shirt and jeans) but he insisted. I met many people the best bit though was meeting the Clerk who is the most senior civil servant at the council. I managed to drop into the conversation about the electricity position at the Orphanage and when it was to be paid. I was being reasonably polite. Then Mary, my neighbour from the Orphange (a 26 year old who is passionate about the Orphanage) who proceeded to give him a full on attack about the situation – good sport!!!   

The ride to Baraka was about 50km (the max I am allowed by VSO to venture from my placement on the bike. This is to avoid volunteers – as has happened – going on epic tours of countries, shame really!!). Baraka Polytechnic is about 4km off the main road between Maragua and Muranga. Tom met me at the Junction and I followed him down dirt tracks and through sleepy villages to a very smart complex. Baraka Poly used to be a World Vision school so has all the mod cons of a well planned NGO development. Including a 4 room house for Tom!! Very jealous but not really doing the living like the locals bit – I console myself with that anyway. Some of the instructors also live on site and I meet James who was at the Nakuru conference. After a brief tour of the complex, including a new fish farm area that they are very pleased with, we walk down to the river to see the waterfall. We can hear it long before we see it. It is about 40m high and about 75m across including a vast cave undercutting the fall. It is in mid flow when I am there and I can only imagine the force and noise when it is in flood. Apparently Freedom Fighters hid in the cave during the troubles.

Back at the poly we chill out as the sun sets chatting, comparing notes about the poly and exchanging stories on the terrace overlooking the valley. Then gin and tonic and dinner. Very civilised.

24 Friday – A lazy start to the day with fine omelette breakfast and great coffee. Then we take a walk to try and see Mount Kenya. Unfortunately it is too hazy but it is a lovely morning and we stroll along the dirt tracks. Late morning I set off back and south of Kenol I take a short cut back to Kandara on a dirt road. This takes me past Kiranga poly so I drop in there for lunch with some of the team before heading back to the Orphanage.

25 Saturday – Have a couple of friends round for the day and we visit the baby unit etc before travelling to Thika for shopping and a change of scene. Friends Round, Baby unit, Thika shopping etc. When I get back there is a coach load of students from a Kenyan University visiting they have brought donations and are helping the kids with washing and playing (mostly the latter!!) and generally giving the youngsters a great time. Later I join them in the hall for food and some presentations etc.  

26^th Sunday – visit friends and a bit of a chill out 

27^th Monday – The poly is still on mid term break. I take the opportunity to travel to Thika to renew temporary driving licence. Can’t believe it is 3months since I passed my test here!! The permanent licence can take upto a year to come so every 3 months I have to get a stamp and the date changed. I stop at a café where I am to meet a couple of Instructors from the poly. I have not been feeling great but now start feeling sick dizzy, etc etc. After nearly feinting I decide to drop out of the meet and get home. I sleep 3 hours and feel much better. I guess it was something I ate and my body was asking me to shut down whilst it sorted it out!!. Late PM I walk to Kiranga visit the chaps at the poly again and have dinner with them. Having not eaten much and now recovered I was starving.

28^th Tuesday – Let there be light!! Finally tonight I have electricity at 9pm. What a novelty and a treat!! The things we take for granted in the OK are so much more appreciated when you have been without for around 4 weeks!!