Feb 2013 - A Young Life Lost - Kenyan Funeral

In February one of the boys from my Kenya family sadly died. The circumstances were unclear but suggestions locally were, allegedly, that he was caught in the pineapple farm of an international fruit juice producer and security guards apparently chased him. He then, allegedly, fell into the river during his escape. Not being able to swim, he then drowned. It was a week before the body was found! I have no way of corroborating this version of events and am just stating what I have been told. The funeral was a further week after the body was found and 2 weeks from the date he fell in the river.

He was obviously a very popular chap as the turn-out was amazing. In Kenya the body is viewed at the funeral parlour early in the morning and then the family return it to the family farm where there is a service. We arrived around 11.30 and the sun was already intense. The coffin was a simple affair and not air-tight. The two week old body was not in a good state. The main seating area was down-wind from the coffin. Family members did their best by spraying air freshener around the joint of the lid. The service was a simple but passionate affair.  Then the coffin was carried into the shamba where the body was buried. The many friends of the chap were a poignant reminder of the sad and early age of the boy that died. It was a privilege to attend the funeral as a member of the Kibe family my adopted Kenya family.

Following the family there was a family meeting to resolve some issues and for the first time I was invited to attend as a family member! A great and huge honour and privilege.  I have been called brother for some time but this meeting is a very closed affair where the family air grievances in private and the elders arbitrate to resolve them. It is extremely rare for non-family members to be invited to join that. The Kibe’s have taken me into the heart of their family and really made my Kenya experience special. 

Early Feb - Climbing Ol Donyo - Near Thika

Having climbed mount Kenya a couple of weeks before, this weekend I decided to climb Ol Donyo also known as Kili manbogo. This hill is near to Thika and stands proud above a relatively flat landscape around the area. It has tempted me to climb it since I first arrived in Kenya. So this weekend I climbed it. It is part of a Kenya Wildlife Service area so there are park fees and you have to climb with a ranger. In theory this is to protect you from the animals. In reality we did not see any. We heard monkeys in the trees but they were just teasing us!!. At the top there are many trees so summit views are not possible. There are viewpoints on the way up which are nice. On balance the trip is probably not worth it unless you just want to have a trek up a hill for exercise. We enjoyed the day out but from a tourist point of view there are many better ways to spend a day. For a resident it is a pleasant days walk. 

Always Check Your Boots!!

A wish man said to me on arrival in Kenya. If you are staying in rural Kenya always shake out your boots before putting them on. Unfortunately I got a bit complacent with that. One morning this "little" fellow (with no sense of smell!) decided my boots would make a great place to sleep. I disturbed his sleep in with my foot. Not sure who was most surprised!!

Late Jan - Kenya - Primary Elections

Kenya is due to have Presidential elections 4^th March 2013 and this week they had the primaries where the parties each ask the people to select candidates to stand for them. After the last elections (refer to my 12 December 2012 Post) there were warnings for volunteers from various agencies to take care and avoid polling stations etc. Now, the polytechnic where I work was a polling station and so was the Children’s home where I live!! Anyway, Kandara is a peaceful place and had no trouble during the last elections.

So Dorcas the Polytechnic Manager and I decided to attend the Poly (closed for polling) so we could market the institution. We had 700 people coming from the local area to vote so it was an opportunity not to be missed. Luckily for us but not for the people wanting to vote, there was a huge delay in getting the voting boxes and papers to the site. They were due at 6am, we arrived at 9 and there was a large queue of people of all ages patiently waiting.

We had given the polling clerks access to a classroom but we opened up the rest of the school and got benches and chairs out for the older ones to rest. Dorcas and I then did regular double acts with me attempting my Kikuyu (local tribal language) that I have about 10 words of and have not quite got the accent right yet – but always get a laugh!! I am a little better at Kiswahilli. We were telling the crowd about the poly, our plans for the future, how we have changed, the computer course etc, etc. This broke up the monotony of waiting. Eventually the decision was made to extend the voting period for another day. The boxes and papers returned the following day.

The following day people turned out again in huge numbers, patiently queued and placed their votes. Over the two days I met some great people and had some fantastic and informative chats with a diverse range of people. My understanding of Kenyan politics and the process was significantly improved, a great couple of days.

Given the concerns and history, it was fantastic that everyone was so patient and cheerful through this whole process. Despite having their work and valuable income generating time disrupted for 2 days, Kenyans took their voting rights and politics very seriously and would not miss the opportunity to have their say. This is such a contrast to my experience in the UK where politics is pretty dull, there is significant ambivalence and apathy towards the whole process and voter turnout is woefully low.

So my over-riding feeling after the two days was a huge respect and admiration for Kenyans. Politics is taken very seriously. It is a shame that much of the reporting (especially internationally) was about the “delays and chaos” and not about how well the people accepted the delays and coped with the searing heat to ensure they cast their valuable vote. I can’t help thinking that in the UK a large proportion would have gone to work and said “forget it!”. There are many things I see and experience in Kenya that are so much better than in the west. It is a shame that only the bad and negative things get reported. 

New Sewing Machines - Income Generation Opportunity

It has been a good end to last year and start to this one. The fruits of early efforts are coming off. We received and new Singer sewing machine and an overlook machine for the tailoring and dressmaking dept. We previously had 14 “butterfly sewing machines which are very old fashioned and do not generate the quality needed to do income generating activities. The samples we took to schools were rejected.

Now with the new machines we already have orders from two schools for around 400 uniforms already. We will now need to get more of the better quality machines (£300 each) to meet the demand and hopefully grow the income generating side this in turn will help us get more equipment – a very positive cycle towards self-sufficiency.  If anyone feels they can support with getting more machines please contact me via the contact link on this blog.

New Toilet Block

During last year the Poly received 250,000 Kshs (just under £2000) for a new toilet block. The current ones look like this.

The current Staff and visitor pit latrine toilet - in 30+ degrees heat - just imagine!!

The boys pit latrine and urinal

The new WC block progressing well

The new ones are well on the way and will be vast improvement. Try as I might to avoid getting back to project managing construction – what I escaped from my old life!! I am having to adopt my style to the much more random approach too but it is a good experience overall. Same problems as the UK, clients changing their minds, late information from the contractor etc etc. Despite this progress is good and we hope to have it finished soon. Might be delayed by the elections though.

9 Jan – Polytechnic Re-opens + Computer Class Starts

January saw the start of a new year at the Polytechnic after the 2 month of Christmas holiday. These holidays are far too long really and the trainees often forget a lot of the good stuff they have learnt or find other things to do. But hey, we soldier on and as you can see from previous posts I make the most of the time!!

We are expecting a slower intake this year as the result from school exams are going to be delayed due to strikes last year. Also we have the election campaigning and the youth can earn cash helping the campaigns which often takes precedence over learning. Short term gains at the expense of education. We still hope to break the magic 100 barrier this year due to marketing and the start of the Computer course. Time will tell. When I started intake had been 27 in 2011, we increased that to 62 in Jan 2012. Let’s see if we can hit a population of 100, a personal challenge I set myself at the start of my placement.

Last year I asked friends and colleagues to search their cupboards etc for old laptops that they could donate for the poly. Ithiru YP had no computers at the start of 2012 and over the last year I gradually acquired some from various sources. We now have 8, a printer and projector. 4 from UK donors, 2 from VSO, one from a departing volunteer and a measly one from the Ministry, the latter is disappointing but I am still working on that one! We therefore have a functioning course. We did not have an instructor however, so for 3 weeks I was Mwalimu Simon (Teacher Simon). This was great fun and a good change from the normal role. Now we have Joseph a very popular and effective teacher and the classes are becoming increasingly popular.

Below - Winnie from VSO hands over 2 more laptops and a projector  

Joseph the new computer teacher with Winnie from VSO (centre) and our youngest "student" sat on a laptop!!

We do still need more computers so that, as the class grows, we ensure there is a laptop for each student in the class (up to 20). If any of you can assist with donating your old ones then please get in touch via the contact option of this blog. The benefit that can be gained here and the change to peoples lives by an old laptop which is currently sitting in your cupboard is amazing, so get searching and get in touch. 

13 January - Kandara Children’s Home Visit

On the way back from Mount Kenya, Marc, Veronica and Anstice dropped by the children’s home. They came with balloons, footballs, etc so we had a great time and they brightened up a quiet Sunday no end for the kids. They just love visitors and the attention they get as you can see from the photos.

Marc has contacts who install biogas systems and also energy efficient stoves so felt he could help the home. With luck in a couple of months the home will have both courtesy of Marc and Veronica’s tenacity and generosity.   

Terrasia - one of the best smiles in Kandara!

 Marc and Newton - Terrasia's Twin Brother

9-12 January - Climbing Mount Kenya

I was at home for just one night before being picked up by Veronica (a former VSO volunteer who is now working in Nairobi), Mark (Veronica’s husband and also working in Nairobi) and Veronica’s sister Anstice (who was visiting from the UK).Veronica had organised a trip to climb Mount Kenya and I tagged along. A massive thanks to Veronica for sorting out what turned out to be an amazing trip.

We travelled up to Nanyuki where we met Mohamud. A lovely chap who many volunteers have used for their travel needs (long distance taxi’s Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya, Safari’s, etc). He gives a great service and highly competitive prices – well recommended, the reasons why can be seen from the story of our trip below.

We set off from Nanyuki in a private Matatu with our bags, 4 porters and Mohamud. We soon arrived at Sirimon Gate (2,650M) and the entrance to the Mount Kenya National Park. We unloaded our bags took photos at the gate and then had a long trek of 20 metres to the other side of the gate where lunch awaited us. “Exhausted” after 30 paces into our climb J we were greeted by tablecloth, cutlery, napkins, fruit juice and a fine cooked meal. The two cooks had arrived earlier and prepared a feast to give us energy for the trek ahead. We certainly would not fail for a lack of good food!!

The first part of the climb was through the forest. Although there were traces of elephants (AKA large poo!), buffalo (footprints) and the sound of monkeys, sadly we did not see any. We did, however, encounter “Charlie” the chameleon who was crossing the road as we passed so we helped him across. Strangely cute these characters, with their unique eyes and feet, etc. I wonder what he was thinking about us?

The weather was amazing and the view of the mountain was both impressive and daunting. After around a 5 hour trek we made it to Old Moses’ hut at 3,300m this is a cluster of huts with kitchens, dormitories, and a communal dining area. It is a cosy place to rest and adjust to the altitude. As the sun set however, we were reminded that the mountain is a harsh place. The temperature dropped rapidly to below freezing and everyone gravitated indoors. There were around 20 others and their respective support at the huts and we had some great chats with people from many different countries and backgrounds over another fine dinner. Once again Mohamud did us proud and we certainly had the best food, eliciting looks of food envy from other groups having much more primitive fare!

After a reasonable nights sleep (for being in a shared dorm) we awoke at 6.30 with a target departure of 8am. It was still bitterly cold, a feeling that living in Kenya you tend to forget! We sorted the bags out, put on layers of clothes and filled ourselves with a hot breakfast of sausage, egg, pancakes, cereal, juice and coffee. 8am we ventured outside, our breath turning to steam in the cold. Very quickly though, with the sun rising, the layers came off and continuing the trek, we were soon very hot. The landscape was now more heathland like. The trees of the forest had been left behind the day before as the altitude and cold became too much for the trees. Plants more adapted to these conditions took precedence.

We stopped at one of the junctions in the path and I took this photo of our entourage. I have to say I was feeling slightly embarrassed at the size of my pack compared to the big thing the small porter was carrying! However, later in the trip I would be very grateful!

We continued the climb and had another fantastic hot meal by a mountain stream.

We encountered Rock Hyrax (which got a little agitated by the strange beast with a camera that got a too close for his liking!!), together with some beautiful birds and more strange plants. Again as we climbed the landscape continued to change and by the time we reached our hut for the evening, Shiptons 4,200m there were very few plants that were surviving now. The air was noticeably thin and as soon as the sun dipped behind the mountains the temperature plummeted to well below freezing.

Again we were in a mountain hut comprising about 5 dorms each could house 10-12 people in bunks. Then there was a communal dining room. We chatted to other climbers, some had been up since the day before doing an acclimatisation walk in advance of attempting the summit. We enjoyed another commendable feast from Mohamud’s team in the kitchen. We were even provided with a charcoal stove to heat under the table and keep us warm, he thinks of everything.

A lot of the others were trying to summit for sunrise. This meant getting up at 2am. We decided to give that a miss and plumbed to set off at 5am. Sleep was limited, whether it was the cold, altitude or pre-summit nerves, I am not sure. The nature of the hut meant we were also awoken by the others getting ready to set off at 2am. The alarms finally went off at just after 4am and we gathered our things, drank copious cups of hot tea and ate a hearty breakfast.

Head torches on, we set off into the darkness for the slow, steep and very cold ascent. On the ridge above us we could see the lights of the other group, way above us. The incline quickly steepened to about a 1:3 of loose scree for the next hour or so. Progressively, ice was holding the loose stones together but, occasionally and unexpectedly it was slippery so that kept us on our toes. Finally, after a couple of hours, the scree stopped and the incline eased. Snow however was making an appearance now. We crested the rim of the shoulder which we were to then track along to the final 1hour kick for the summit.

The advantage of our later start meant we had now had the warmth of the sunrise. The walk was now much more pleasant but, with the decreasing oxygen was no less tiring. The pace was very slow now, we were taking short baby steps and resting every hundred metres or so. The 360 degree view from here with the golden hue of the morning sun, the ruggedness of the mountain and the rest of the mountains in the range was amazing.

Finally, after a last kick for the summit we made it to 4985m and the 3^rd highest of the 3 summits of Mount Kenya. The others require some serious climbing that my “respect” (AKA fear!) of heights will not permit me to attempt. At the top we could see the summit of Kilimanjaro about 250 miles away in Tanzania (Amazing!) .

Something I was not expecting was a Via Ferata (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata) on the descent across the glacier. Again my fear of heights came to the fore! We traversed the glacier and climbed down rock faces using the metal wire fixed to the rock and the occasional metal rung steps. Significantly easier and safer than if it was not there but that did not stop my Elvis style leg wobbles at a couple of more precarious moments!! Finally off the snow, we descended in the sun down scree slopes towards lunch. During this walk Mohamud explained how far the glacier had retreated over the last 10 years – scary!! At that rate it will be gone in the next 10!

By 1pm we made it to the lunch stop and had caught up with the advance group. Lunch was very welcome, although I was still feeling slightly nauseous from the altitude. I could not eat as much as I should have. We were all very tired after the early start and negotiated a 1 hour sleep stop on the bunks in the hut before setting off in the now rapidly fading visibility down the remaining 3 hours hike.

The mist gave way to rain and the predicted 3 hours turned out to be wildly optimistic. We finally made it to out night stop by 6pm after 14 hours walking(less a couple for sleep and food). The worst part was the last 2 hours were in heavy rain and sleet. We had been lucky up until then and it could have been a lot worse if it had rained in the morning. However, our final hut had a raging log fire to welcome us and we soon forgot the rain as we warmed up. In the evening I had got my appetite back and had a feast before falling into an exhausted deep sleep at 8.30.

The final day we awoke to warm sunshine and a gentle 3 hours walk out of the national park. An amazing trip overall and highly recommended. I returned to Kandara Saturday afternoon leaving the other 3 to chill out in a smart hotel.