Today I travelled to Ingararia
to meet Simon Kariuki who is the Electrical Instructor at the Polytechnic. He
has kindly invited me to the Bride price ceremony of a neighbour. Luckily I
arrive after the slaughtering again. One day I should make it to this important
part of the ceremony. I am not sure if I would keep my breakfast down though –
check out all the blood in the photos. When getting married in Kenya the Groom
has to provide the bride price. Depending on the status of the family, the
“quality” and education of the bride to be and other factors the price is
agreed in terms of livestock and cash. On this occasion a bull, a goat and a sheep
were slaughtered together with an undisclosed sum in cash.
The animals had been slaughtered and butchered as I arrived
around 11am and the fires were ready to receive the meat.
The men of the groom’s party sort out the bull meat and the
brides team sort out the goat and sheep.
I sit in the circle of men as various body parts and internals are
passed around and chopped/hacked. Bits of bone, flesh and blood splatter past
and onto me intermittently. This is not one for the squeamish!
The head and hooves are put on the fire to burn off the
hairs and skin. This is handled using a branch shoved up the poor things nose!
Luckily after it has died (I think!). I get the chance to help scrapping off
the fur.
Another great honour is that I am offered the horns of the
bull. A real privilege, these are used to drink beer from at such ceremonies as
you have to keep drinking as you cannot put them down without them spilling.
Lucas, the bride’s brother, invites me and Simon to drop
around to his house next door. I am handed a glass of cloudy yellow (I have to
say urine looking) liquid. This is Muratina beer which is made by adding sugar,
honey, sugar cane and water to a water container. Mixing it up and then leaving
it to ferment for 3-7 days (depending on who I asked!). The result is
“different” and I am sure it must be an acquired taste. OK for a small glass or
two but I am not sure I could drink a lot.
Back at the party we start on the meat and soup (Broth from
the boiling pans of meat). Not one item of the cow is wasted. By now it was
about 1pm and Simon suggested we pick his wife up from his home. When there she
had prepared lunch? We were at a feast of 3 slaughtered animals. Politely I ate
it and it was lovely, a huge helping too and I was stuffed after it. Then back
to the feast. On entering the party with a full stomach I was handed a chunk of
meat. Shortly afterwards the buffet started. Simon and I left it till the last
minute to maximise the potential for even a small space to appear in our
stomachs. Being the only Mzungu the hosts wanted to make sure I had a hearty
portion! Lovely sentiment but anyone who has seen the Mr Creosote sketch on
Monty Python will know how I was now feeling! Never mind the dogs had a good
meal! Then back round to Lucas’s place for another sneaky beer.
Then back for the speeches where everyone is introduced.
Including random white men! I valiantly greeted the crowd in Kikuyu and then
switched to Kiswahili after my 5 words ran out. I got away with my Kiswahili
and they also appreciated my Kikuyu. By 6pm I made my excuses and left to try
and get through Thika town before it was too dark. Best laid plans were ruined
by a really bad car crash we came upon that we had to assist with – not pretty
it had spun and rolled, if only people would wear seatbelts!
After finally making it to Thika and switching to the
Kandara Matatu which luckily left as soon as I got on all was looking good.
Half way to Kandara I noticed we had slowed and there was a hot water smell
then BANG! And lot of steam. We rolled to a stop in the middle of nowhere in
the pitch lack at what was now around 8pm. Not a place for a white man, the
advise suggests, but what was I to do. Anyway the driver had a friend who was
off duty and he arrived after about 15 minutes with an empty matatu and took us
the rest of the journey. Thankfully and finally I was home safe.
I dropped into the dining hall of the orphanage and joined a
party that was in full swing due to some visitors who were there and ended up
dancing and playing musical chairs. Much to the great amusement of the kids on
both counts!!
All in all a great day!
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