Up to 29 Jan - Unexpectedly Mad off Road Biking and a Matatu Crash

Monday 23 Jan

Busy day at work as we had a report to complete for the Ministry for a meeting on Tuesday. It required a lot of information about the previous years performance, projections for this year, etc etc. Without the old Manager it was a challenge to find some of the info. Luckily a lot of the information was in a background review I had completed in my first 2 months which helped to short cut things. We completed as much as we could, and after some frantic last minute photocopying in Kandara (no computers, printers or a copier at the Polytechnic), Dorcas (the acting Manager) although nervous, was as ready as she could be for the meeting on Tuesday.

During the day I received a text from VSO Jitolee in Nairobi (circulated to all volunteers) advising us to be extra vigilant and avoid crowds and public places, keep travel to a minimum of between work and home.  This was due to the ICC ruling being due at 13.30 that day on the Ocampo 6 charged with being involved in the 2007/8 troubles. The concern was that either way one party might feel aggrieved. As it happened either, there is a much more positive view amongst Kenyans now and a strong drive to avoid a repeat, or the high police presence in the previously affected areas (or both) meant there was no trouble to speak of.

Monday evening I met Joyce my Kiswahili teacher for my first lesson at the Quicky Café in Kandara centre & Nancy who had put me in touch with Joyce after a chance meeting on a Matatu. The lesson was due to start at 5pm. As with all things in Kenya we started late. Although my vocabulary is getting better, Joyce’s initial “test” comprised mostly words I had not got yet. By the middle of the lesson I had recovered some of my confidence and managed to show that I had at least learnt something in the first 2 months. It was good to have two people to bounce things off and if I did not get something the other could offer a different perspective. After an hour and a half my brain was fried and we stopped (was only supposed to be a 1 hour lesson). That did, however, mean it was now gone 7pm and dark as I walked through Kandara followed by a half mile track down an unlit road to the Children’s Home. I was very mindful of the warning text at this point!!! Luckily I got home trouble free and chilled out having dinner and watching a film.

Tuesday – with Dorcas away at the Ministry I was holding the fort in the office completing more trainee registrations. They are still trickling in and we are now about 20% up on 1^st year intake from last year which makes all the presentations and advertising we did in December worthwhile. I also had to help with the completion of CDF (Community Development Fund) Bursary forms. These have to be collected and processed through about 4 different organisations by the trainees or parents. One is verification, reference and stamping by the Polytechnic. The money this provides works out at about half of the first terms fees to the trainees family.

After work I walked home with Jane the cook as I was hoping to give Alex (Jane’s 14 year old son) another computer lesson. Unfortunately, he was not back until after 5.30 and I needed to get back to do some hand washing before dark. It did mean I managed to watch Shrek on the Laptop with the younder ones (and parents) which was a giggle.

Wednesday – Started the day with Chai on the steps of the Orphanage dining hall with the staff as I was going in on my Motorbike I had more time. Always a good chilled start to the day.

Dorcas had returned with more information required by the Ministry, but also news that our  document had been the best which was nice feedback especially to help boost Dorcas confidence in her new position.

The afternoon we caught up on admin, etc. After work I set off on an explore on the motorbike and also to improve my off-road riding skills. The roads I had chosen were a little more challenging than I anticipated and the distance was further too. Deep sand or deeply rutted dirt tracks made up about 50% of the route so both the bike and I took a battering. I used a few of my nine lives and defied gravity a number of times. I was pleased to get back having remained upright although how i have no idea.

Thursday – I took a workshop in the afternoon on Production. This is a requirement of the ministry and the Board of Governors (BOG) to generate additional income by utilising the facilities and the trainees to produce products or provide services to the community on a commercial basis. This has been a requirement of the Ministry for the last 2-3 years and other than a few uniforms, not a great deal has been produced. I decided to open up about the financial rational for the institution to try and boost understanding and buy in. Basically without production income we make a loss. It is therefore essential to the viability of the organisation. Most were astute enough to have already worked this out and were very supportive. A couple will need a little more encouragement. All subjects are to prepare a business plan as if they were an independent business and include an application to the BOG for start-up funds (as if they were approaching a bank). This process can also be shared with the trainees to assist if they want to set up on their own on completion of the course or sometime after.

Thursday evening usual second hand wash of the week, dinner and bed.

Friday – More ministry documentation and Dorcas having again to do the 1 hour trip there. This meant it was for me to chair the staff meeting. Two of the most vocal instructors were not present so what would normally be a 2 hour meeting was over in just over half an hour. That did of course mean that we did not have a full input. I will pick up with them next week.

Back at the orphanage, Kirsty the previous volunteer Kirsty was there with Carol a retired nurse who was at the orphanage last year for 2-3 months. Carol has come back for 3 weeks to help with the healthcare of the children.

Saturday – Spring clean the house, etc. then a long chat over a cup of tea with Carol. Much exchange of experiences, life plans, etc. Later, I visited Dorcas (acting Manager at the Poly) who had invited me to her home. I met Mark her partner and Jeremy her 18month old child – very cute. Mark is a motor vehicle instructor at a school 5 hours away so is away during the week. A very interesting chap and we chatted for ages. Dorcas then produced a feast of stew and chapattis. Then back home to chill out.

Sunday – Thika to shop for stuff I can’t get in Kandara. On the way home the Matatu stopped at the bottom of a slip road due to traffic. Suddenly there was a screech of tyres and a bang as a car rammed into the back of the Matatu where I was sat. Much gesticulating and shouting later the Matatu driver and conductor decided the very solid Matatu was pretty much undamaged. The car was a steaming crumpled mass that was not going anywhere. We continued our journey leaving a very embarrassed car driver. Later I popped round to Jane’s place to meet some visiting members of the family and chat to Elliod (Jane's Brother) in the shade of a tree.           

Upto 21 January

Took the remaining 20 balloons to the Baby Unit I blew them all up and left them with the ladies as the kids were sleeping. Apparently they lasted about 5 minutes but much fun was had, lots of smiles and giggles and the odd tear.

Monday night I met Joyce who is a Kiswahili teacher at a local school. I desperately need to accelerate my ability and will be having a one hour lesson a week. I have asked her to push me and not let get away with not doing my homework!! I get an allowance from VSO and will be having 15 lessons. Let’s see if I can be a good pupil!!

The new first years at the Polytechnic arrived all enthusiastic on Tuesday and the instructors got stuck into teaching after a welcome assembly and speeches from all including me (even a smattering of Kiswahili!!). The temporary manager had to go to the Ministry a couple of days so I was holding the fort in the office - continuing enrolment, collection of fees and form filling. Meeting the parents as the money was brought in. Ensuring those eligible for a “needy case” reduction in fees had a letter from the Chief or Sub-Chief verifying their case. It was fun and a good way of testing my Kiswahili in action, a bit daunting at times.

Tuesday afternoon was Games so I had a tough afternoon playing volleyball. A great way to meet the new ones and a good opportunity for them to mix.

The Ministry require a vast amount of information about the institutions historic performance, staff information for some could be a challenge.  Also without a computer or photocopier it has involved time consuming trips to Kandara 6km away on foot or via 2 matatu.

Rest of the week pretty normal. I have started my workshops this week with some introductory stuff and get down to the nitty gritty next week.

Another weekend in Kandara ahead. This morning catching up with domestic stuff and the rest of the time chilling at the orphanage and will go out for a trek both days and continue my random explorations of the area. Will try and get some photos to brighten up the blog pages. 

14-15th Weekend – Xmas Parcel

A rare weekend in Kandara after weeks of travel. Chai with the Orphanage staff and then the day started well - whilst prepping breakfast the gas ran out so off to get that! Gas prices have been a victim of inflation so there goes 50% of my weeks budget and my resolution to try and live within my allowance in January (no managed yet since getting here!!). Hand washing (again!!) then into Thika to pick up a parcel that my Parents posted 29 Nov with xmas decorations etc in it!! Met James the Motor Mechanics Instructor for coffee and then back to Kandara for a siesta in the heat of the afternoon (sorry to all those freezing in the UK J) Then an evening stroll in Kandara as the sun set over the banana trees etc. I love this place.

 Sunday Chai with the team again and then breakfast back at home. Later in the morning I decided to finally be brave and go trekking on my own. Up to now I have stayed to popular routes that I know. There is a track that goes off just near the entrance of the orphanage so I decided to see where it went. I set myself 1.5 hours and then I would turn back but I was hoping for a circular route that would end up close to Jane the cooks place (near Kabati) so I could catch up with the kids there and see the pictures they had drawn with the crayons etc I had given them as part of their Christmas presents.

I followed the track up a valley heading further from Kandara and not quite going in the direction of Kabati. I tried to spot a track crossing the valley but there were only small trails that seemed to go to people’s houses or through farms. However everyone I met was so friendly and helpful it was great. Most even escorted me to ensure I made the right turns etc.  A leisurely afternoon in the shade chatting to Jane’s Brother and having lunch and then home for a late Siesta.

Evening spend playing with balloons (from my parents parcel) with the kids at the orphanage. It is great how such simple things can give such happiness (until they burst then a few tears L ) but all good. 

10th-13th Jan Back at Work

Walked to work and met the Chairman en-route. Told the manager had resigned whilst I was away – great start, was it something I said!! Bit of a shock as I had got on well with him and we had seemed to work well together. Seems he is off to pastures new.

The remaining team though have risen to the challenge well and the acting Manager is really taking to the role well. It seems to have brought a new energy and focus to the institution as we all understand that the trainees cannot be affected. First years arrive next week. Enrolment numbers are rising steadily and we got some good news from the Ministry regarding the donation of a greenhouse and related plants etc which will help the kitchen and hopefully provide a surplus to sell and increase income a little.

From what started with a shock it was a great week in the end. I also met the old manager at Kandara Market Thursday night and had a good chat with him. All seems OK.

I also had my Motorbike delivered finally. The faults (speedo not working, etc) I noted at training over a month ago are still there but at least it has been washed! I will still walk to work most of the time but at least I have an option if I lie in. Plus it will be easier to visit other institutions and volunteers.

4th-9th Jan - Chilling out on the Beach and Journey Home "First Class"

4^th – 7th Jan Chilling out on the Beach

The rest of the week was spent just chilling out on the beach which remained idyllically quiet and the sand was almost dust like it was so fine the water crystal clear blue. The presence of a coral 2-300m from the shore meant it was relatively save and warm swimming. We took a glass bottomed boat out one day and went snorkelling. Admired the kite surfers being very energetic from a shady beach spot. Maybe next time? We had planned a day in Mombasa but the beach and where we were staying was so nice we decided to just enjoy what could be our only sight of the sea for 2 years. Plus the last couple of weeks indulgence was taking it’s toll on the budget. Mombasa will have to wait.

8-9^th Jan The Journey Home – Real Playstation

We decided to take the day bus home as one of the party had to work on the 9^th and would have been a zombie at work if they had got off the night bus straight to work. This meant 9 hours in the 30 degree sun in a no air-con bus. Got a great tan on one side though! Up at 6am, taxi to Mombasa and then were treated to “first class” the front seats next to the driver. This was much more comfortable but meant you had the full Imax type real Playstation view through the windscreen of all the overtaking and near misses that are everyday life on Kenyan roads. Stopped over in Machakos and then picked up the dirty washing etc I had dropped off in Nairobi on the way to Mombasa, Matatu epic home and arrived back in Kandara 32 hours after leaving the Beach. 2 hours of hand washing supervised by the kids at the orphanage who had given me a great welcome back as I came through the gates. It really felt like coming home which was good. Chilled out and caught up with the Orphanage Staff the rest of the night and had an early night before work tomorrow. 

3rd Jan - The Beach

We arrived in Mombasa at 5am and were immediately mobbed by taxi touts. After making sure our bags that had been tied to the roof were firstly still there and secondly made it to us we negotiated a deal to Diani beach at 2500 shillings (I had been advised it would be 3-3500) however once in the car through my sleep deprived head I noticed there were 2 taximen in the car, a little odd? We set off down some decidedly dodgy streets. I had a terrible sinking feeling. We turned into a docklands area and the fear rose and my sleep deprivation vanished. Fear was abated when I realised we were taking the ferry across the estuary to save time and the dock was surprisingly full of people at that time in the morning. Phew!!

20 mins later we arrived at Diani Beach Campsite and Cottages. I had contacted them the day before to say we would arrive early and they had said the cottage was free so we would be able to get in on arrival which was a huge blessing. We dropped the bags in the cottage and feel pretty much straight asleep at around 6.30am. We woke at lunchtime and could finally take in our idyllic surroundings of thatched cottage, pool, monkeys in the trees (don’t leave your camera etc lying around!!) and the Indian Ocean only 200m away. Being away from Mombasa and it being after the peak of New Year the beach was very quiet and swimming and chilling was the order of the day. Sipping milk from a freshly picked (we saw him do it, you do not get fresher than that) in the shade then back to the cottage to freshen up before pizza and drinks and an early night.  

2 Jan – Niavasha to Mombasa

After a lazy start and full cooked breakfast, one handed shower to keep the bandages dry. We had chartered a Matatu and all played being conductor hanging off the door banging the roof to stop etc. all before we set off. We are not brave enough to do it at 30kph like the pros!!

Many crashes on the road to Nairobi reminded us of the perils of road travel in Kenya. Most were lorries overturning and looked like the results of dodgy overtaking. One lorry on the descent from the plateau of Nairobi to the floor of the Rift Valley was teetering (Italian Job like) on the edge of the escarpment and just avoided plummeting to the floor. I was a little apprehensive about my night bus journey to Mombasa that evening!!

Into Nairobi I stopped off at the Mountain View to shuffle my bags and contents around to suit the upcoming beach chill out and then onto Nairobi.

Next a matatu to Machakos to pick up a friend, grab some provisions, get the night bus ticket etc. We were to assemble at 6.30pm and set off at 7pm. My Kenyan friend who had popped home did not turn up till 7.15pm (those who know my time keeping will imagine how calm and relaxed I was about that!!) however the bus still had not arrived (local knowledge!!). 9pm the bus arrived and we all piled on. Unlike Matatu they are more strict on one person per seat on the longer distance buses. That is, except when it comes to children who apparently do not count. We had two of the back seats and a family of 6 had the other 3. My height combined with very bumpy roads 8 people on 5 seats and lumpy seats meant the journey was an eight hour endurance test. We stopped twice to unfold ourselves and stretch our legs, etc. The entertainment for the journey was trying to work out whether we would make it past the latest lorry before hitting the full beam coming towards us. This happened about every 5 minutes! Better than playstation J. 

Blog Updates

I have just updated the blog upto 1st December. Rest to follow shortly. I have also included a gadget on the blog page that if you click it and log your e-mail address it will e-mail you when i update the blog. Blog updates are likely to be only weekly now so you will not be bombarded with e-mails. 


Happy reading


Simon

1 Jan Cycle Safari to “Hell and Back”

This definitely was surreal. We hired some mountain bikes which arrived with only one brake working and other minor “challenges”. After a little fettling and a few hits with a hammer etc they were just operable. A boys trip today by pure coincidence. There was a suggestion that it was because the boys can handle hangovers better than the girls but I could not comment on that of course!

We were cycling to Hell’s Gate which is a gorge cut in the volcanic dust by rivers. The entrance of which is described as Hell’s Gate. It has been used for many film sets including Tomb Raider and Lion King. The approach requires cycling through a safari park. The entrance says “Beware of the Cats!” I presumed it was a joke but apparently not!! (we found out afterwards there are leopard and cheetah (but no Lions) luckily for us they are very shy of humans! Cycling down an ever narrowing valley with Giraffe, Zebra, Warthog, many Antelope and Baboons whilst having the free feeling of being on a bike was an experience to savour. The animals are fairly used to cyclists too so we could get pretty close. The heat was intense too as was the dust from the road when the occasional car passed us.

The water falling is shower hot!

At the start of Hell’s gate we picked up Austin a guide who was excellent. We saw volcanic plugs, washed in hot waterfalls (where is the Shampoo when you need it!! (well I don’t need it obvioulsly….!)). Because the volcanic dust is deep and soft, the water has cut very deep narrow channels and it is immediately apparent why this area would make great film sets. 

Halfway down Matt spotted a snake and on prodding it with a stick noticed two bulges just below it’s neck – Cobra!!! – luckily, it was only a foot long but not happy with the stick. I kept a safe distance as did Austin as Matt tried to pick it up with a stick – The things some people do for a buzz!

At the end of the walk bit of the gorge it widens 

out again into a deep wider valley that is heavily forested due to the water and was the main Lion King setting. We climbed to the top of the gorge and just stood and admired the splendour of it.

                                              


























As we said our goodbye’s Austin said “So boys now you have been to Hell and Back!”

The cycle out of the valley was obviously uphill and the heat had not abated but our water supply was limited. By the time we got to the entrance we were parched. A long rest and a couple of cold drinks and we were tired but heading home. 

The track out was raised slightly with loose gravel at the edge before a 2 foot deep narrow ditch. Not concentrating I drifted onto the gravel and the front wheel slipped into the ditch. A quick 360 or two over the handle bars (including a face plant) and I was folded in the ditch entangled with the bike. I could not move as I was tangled but the boys behind me had seen the crash and then me not move so they were just a little concerned. Luckily we had Doctor Bob (a paediatrician volunteer) with us. We quickly assessed that most of the blood was from superficial grazes including the one on my face. The worst was two gouges in my arm where my now very mangled watch with a metal bracelet style strap had been ripped off. At least they were clean cuts. After reprimanding the boys for not getting a picture of the crash or me in the ditch we set off back a little slower.

Milking the sympathy

Back at Carnelleys I prioritised a medicinal beer over a shower and cleaning up the wounds. There was much sympathy from the team but that soon wore off and turned to the usual banter which is much more fun.

That evening after a couple of days of living the colonial, expat style of eating and drinking we decided to go to a local café for dinner and have kokoo choma (barbequed chicken). 8 of us remained and we were the only muzungus there which was great. Good to put some money into the real community too.

Back for a beer and a round robin game of table tennis and then we all crashed after the New Year festivities the night before. 

31 December - Mount Longonot and New Years Eve

Full English breakfast in the bar prepared us well for a climb up what the sign said was a 29,000 ft mountain (higher than Everest then?? I think the sign writer got carried away with his “0’s”). Mount Longonot is a volcano that is still technically active although it has not blown for a very long time. The walk involves what is described as an 8km approach walk (we did it in 50mins so I think the sign writer was having an off day!!) then the rim of the volcano is an 11km circuit (judging by the fatigue levels afterwards, I think the distance was right on that!). Once on the rim the view is very impressive. The crater is huge.

The base inside is about 200m below the rim and with a thick layer of vegetation. A short way along the rim we came to a sign noting a path down to a steam vent we had seen from a distance. The path was very steep and a little precarious (no UK style Health and Safety concerns here!!) Only 3 of us decided to have a go (the others balked on the basis of the heat and also the nature of the path as far as we could see). It was climbing down a foot wide very steep dirt path with only clumps of grass to hold onto. Those who know me will know I have a sporadic and irrational fear of heights which was severely tested on both the descent and the climb back. Much hyperventilating and not looking down!! The heat vent was amazing and surreal. I think I also muttered the words “blimey that steam is hot” (well it is steam…..?). The heat inside the crater generally was overwhelming as there was no breeze due to the crater walls. 

                                                 

By the time we got to the top we quaffed about half a litre of water in one go. This was also due to encountering a small (about 2ft long and under in inch in diameter) but vivid bright green coloured snake on the way up (it crossed the path just 2 feet in front of me) I think it was hiding near one of the clumps of grass I grabbed. Later we discovered it was a Green Mamba, one of the deadliest snakes in Kenya!! Glad I did not know that on the way up or when I was poking around in the grass to show the others what it was!! The whole walk took about 6 hours and back at the car park we had a celebratory beer like true English people!

Then it was back to Carnelley’s to freshen up for New Year’s Eve. We found a great alcove at the bar that could seat all 18 of us and provided almost a private party feel. Others had joined us for New Year’s eve there were parents of one person and friends of volunteers etc. 

                                           Some of the boys above and most of the girls below

Sadly the DJ insisted on playing what he liked and not what the clientele of the bar wanted so dancing was reasonably limited. A few games, lots of chatting and some reluctant dancing (on my part!! Those who have seen my thunderbird dance will know what I mean there!!). Usual count down and New Years Eve hugs etc. I made it to 1.30 but being old called it a day then. 

29 and 30 Dec - Leaving Masia Mara and Going to Naivasha

29^th out at 6.30

Having gone to bed early to be fresh for the sun rise safari this morning I had little sleep after waking up at about 2pm I could not get back to sleep due to some very large sounding animals moving about very close to the tent. I am sure they were only mice or lizards etc. Bleary eyed, we set off in the sunrise to see a lioness and cub, hyena, a pair of cheetahs, etc etc.

Very bumpy drive home and then a night in Nairobi before Niavasha. The highlight of the return journey was climbing up the escarpment of the Rift Valley in clear skies (we missed this magnificent sight on the way to the safari due to fog). 

30 – Lake Niavasha

I got a lift to Niavasha with Sandy a seasoned volunteer so I was at Westlands early for the drive to Niavasha. That was a great treat as it saved a hot trip in about 3 matatu. Unfortunately the lake was over ridden with water hyacinth so we could not do the hippo boat trip thing. We were at Carnelley’s site staying in a Banda. The site was excellent and the bar area was amazing. In the afternoon we went to the Joy Adamson Elsa Museum (her of Born Free Fame) the main reason was they have unlimited cakes with afternoon tea on the lawn included with every ticket. You have to be careful with the cakes though as the Columbus Monkeys in the trees were ninja like in their cake stealing prowess. They managed to sneak a couple but that gave us an excuse to go back for seconds, thirds, etc.

                                            

At night we sat on a circle of chairs in a dip with a camp fire in the middle and had food and drink brought out to us. I could not help feeling a little colonial and having a few scruples about the volunteering thing, but hey it was a rare treat. 

28th Dec – full day game drive - Masai Mara

The day started at 6.30 with a quick breakfast and collecting our packed lunches. Then we ran the gauntlet of the Masai Mara curio touts at the gate to the park who are extremely persistent and even open your windows and thrust their wares at you. Rapidly though we were through and making our way across the plains to the river. 

En-route we were treated to a Baboon community right next to the road, (they even put on an acrobatic display in the trees for our benefit J) and a leopard sleeping in a tree. We were the first to come upon a Cheetah sat on an ant hill surveying the area for game. 

                                               

We sat there watching it for over 15 minutes before another vehicle came. My favourite moment of the day, just us and a Cheetah. Finally we approached the river and were treated to the sight of a heavily pregnant lioness 5m from the car! 

Shortly after that, we spotted our first hippo. They seem very cuddly, clumsy and lazy, but apparently they are one of the most dangerous and surprisingly fast? After crocs, more hippos, etc. plus the bonus of a herd of around 18 elephants crossing the river (including the little ones crossing with only their trunks visible as the water was too deep for them to be above the surface) a magical moment. We broke for lunch by and umbrella tree on the plains and ate whilst savouring the vast view of the National Park. We were also acutely aware that we had seen a lion less than 1km from where we sat.

On the way back we saw more animals then we took a track and got very stuck in some very deep mud. With an elephant 200m away we were trying to dig a 3 tonne 4x4 out! We were like coiled springs waiting to jump back into the car if it moved!! Luckily a couple of other 4 x 4’s saw one of us that was stood on the roof frantically waving at cars on the tracks in the distance. 

                                           

 

A very large Land Rover with a couple of Masai in full garb eventually pulled us out. Embarrassingly for the driver, a Matatu style van then drove straight through the mud no problem!! On the way home we finally saw the missing member of the big 5 – a Rhino. Unfortunately we were one of the last cars to get there so there was the rather surreal experience of one of the rarest animals in the park virtually surrounded by what could have been mistaken for a paparazzi rush hour J. Fortunately that was a rare bit of congestion on our trip but on this occasion the beauty of the Masai Mara was slightly spoilt by the number of vehicles. George had done very well throughout the day to find us some very nice animals often where we were the only vehicle so we could not complain really.

                                          

Back to camp for another of Charles’ fine meals and to wind up George the driver for the mud incident!! Apparently it was to add to the drama and excitement of the safari and was deliberate?

27 Masai Mara Safari

We woke early as we were being picked up at 9am and Catherine’s Friend Shilpa (from the USA) was due to arrive at 8am fresh from summiting Kilimanjaro in Christmas Day. Harvey had made pancakes for breakfast which he Christened as Panattis (a cross between pancakes and chapatti as he had not quite got the mix right. Still tasted good and filled a corner. We were picked up by George our driver and Charles “tent pitcher and chef”. The 4x4 was a 9 seater Toyota Landcruiser complete with lift up roof for safe animal viewing. We stopped at an ATM and I allowed myself a rare treat of a cappuccino for the start of the journey. As we left Nairobi we dropped off the Nairobi plateau and down the Rift Valley Escarpment my first encounter with this amazing sight. Even through the fog and rain it was obvious this area is spectacular but photos would have to wait until our return journey.

We stopped at Narok en-route for lunch, to pick up final provisions and also to pick up the final 2 of our party – Caroline and Fanja (from Belgium and Germany respectively). Caroline is a VSO volunteer and Fanja is her friend and is also volunteering but on a more self-service basis.

The journey continued and the roads deteriorated further. After seeing impala, zebra etc we finally arrived at the entrance to the Masai Mara National Park. We left Charles at the camp site to pitch the tents and prepare food as we went for our first dusk safari. Dusk is a great time to see the animals and we spotted a lion with a zebra kill, elephants, leopard, wart hog, many impala and zebra, etc. 

The leopard was about 2m away (hence the great shot above) next to the road and seemed completely unfazed by us photographers and tourists. The park closes at 6.30 and it was 6.31 as we passed through the gates so we could not have crammed much more in.

Back at camp the tents were pitched, we even had flush toilets and showers! Coffee and dinner awaited us. It was served in a pre-pitched tent and was much better than I had expected. We had a choice of 3 meals and assorted vegetables. As good as most of the hotels we have stayed in over here! Then to bed for an early start for a full day crossing the Mara to the river in search of hippos.