After another night of heavy rain the day once again started with bright sunshine. Very efficient this climate!Temperatures are 13ish overnight and then anything from 25-30 degrees in the day. Usual routine of boiling water for the bucket wash, for the water filter and for coffee. Collecting water to fill up the cistern and store for later too. Then fresh fruit breakfast and off to catch a Matatu to Thika a nearby town. Itinerary – buy essentials I can’t get in Kandara (decaf coffee, pegs, and other exciting things like that). Sort out a Kenyan bank account, then meeting Maru and Thomas two volunteers with VSOJ who work at Youth Polytechnics too. Then back for the Bride Dowry ceremony near Kandara.
First my first solo trip on a Matatu. For those who do not know what one is, think a small minibus type thing that in the UK would seat 9 inc driver (smaller than a transit van). These ones, however, have been refitted to take 14 seated (very cosy) but, there is little control of this. Mine started well apart from the fact that most Kenyans ave 5ft 6 so I was folded into the back seat. After only a few stops I counted 20 people and two chickens that had escaped their owner and were running around my feet J. There is a Police checkpoint just before Thika which results in a charade where anyone who is actually in a seat being asked to put their seat belts on (where they work!) and then the Policeman vaguely glances through the window and we set off again. All seatbelts are then removed and Mr Policeman seems to ignore the vastly overloaded vehicle that has just driven past. Just hope one does not crash with me in it. I should be safe really as there is usually no room to move about so it is probably safer than having a seat belt? Another thing to complete the picture, it was about 25 degrees outside, all windows were closed and antiperspirant seems to be out of stock J. Great fun though! People are generally friendly and intrigued by what aMzungo is doing on there, so some good chats en-route.
I was dropped off in the middle of a frantic and bustling market place. Then did a quick shop before the bank opened. I checked out a couple of banks and settled for Barclays. All sorted surprisingly quickly. Then,a quick visit to an internet café for my first net access for a week. All went too quickly and then had to log off to meet Thomas and Maru.
Maru is a lovely lady from the Philippines who has been here for about a year.Her Poly is about 30 mins east of Thika (I am 30 mins west). Thomas,the first white man I have seen in a week,is an hour north of Thika so I am impressed he has dropped down to Thika to meet me. Thomas has been here since August. We catch up about VSO, life in Kenya and I get a few tips etc. They confirm the relatively slow pace is normal as is the approx. one month holidays between terms, although both use that time to make progress on documents etc as well as exploring. We have a rare treat of eating and drinking in a café (luxury on volunteer wages – approx. £35 a week!).
Back on a Matatu early enough to make it home, I drop my bag and freshen up before walking about 3km to meet Isaac so he can take me to the Bride Dowry ceremony. Basically, if a couple want to get married the groom/his family must agree the “bride price”. This is determined by breeding/stock, academic ability, looks, etc etc. I said “so it is the parents return on their investment?” “Yes”!!
The Dowry can be upto a million KS (140/£) depending on the “specification”. Anyway it is made up of a number of elements. In this case it was a couple of goats and a bull which a slaughtered for the Dowry feast plus the cash. I met Isaac and we walked down a dirt track to the bottom of the valley and waited by a river for the procession. Isaac’s village is about 10km away. There was a delay sowe dropped into the “Riverside Bar” appropriately named and in an idyllic location but a little “rustic!”. In there I created the usual reaction (I was the first Mzungo they had seen in their on further query) but we were soon chatting with the locals and drinking our Coke (honest!). Two old boys were great fun and we chatted for about an hour. Then we went to join the procession. We waited outside the venue for the host to check all the dowry had materialised. Meanwhile about 250 people were blocking a surprisingly busy dirt track. I got introduced to many people and they were all surprised and pleased to see a white man at the wedding. Isaac introduced me to his wife Alice, a lovely lady dressed in a splendid red dress. Next introduction - another couple of old boys. They quizzed me about wife kids etc. Surprised I was wifeless, one promptly offered me any one of his 3 daughters. I said I would not be able to afford them, but he persisted and said they were “very cheap” I thought about making a gag about “buy one get one free” but my mental censor, fortunately, kicked in at that point”. Luckily too at that point the bride dowry transaction was complete and we could enter. I am still creating various reactions from shock, puzzlement to amusement and a very warm welcome. All becoming normal by now!
We sit down amongst the stables area of a small holding, which has a temporary tarpaulin above and plastic chairs for seating, etc. About 50% more people crammed in than was comfortable but it worked. Prayers were said by representatives of each community and then the feast started. Ladies generally service the men and I was told to just sit and it would all come to me. Freshly slaughtered and cooked bull with potato and a ugali veg dish appeared in no time and I ate away chatting to all around me in Kiswahili and understanding only a small amount of what was said but they seemed impressed with my replies. Perhaps I bought someone’s daughter afterall?
Isaac left me for a while and came back after 30mins stating that he had gone to find the promised “Kenyan beer” (a honey flavoured drink) but had found out that, due to the religion of one of the hosts, it was a dry party. Also the promised ladies dancing and “men observing”!! did not materialise as people had walked so far (and had to go back, plus had a belly full of food). Isaac, me and a couple of others snuck away eventually to the Riverside Bar. The first visit was circa 2pm. It was now about 5 and the atmosphere was a little more “lively” bordering on feisty. Most were friendly but a couple of drunks tried to get me to buy a beer a little forcefully and I was glad I was with Kenyans who with the help of some locals managed to exit the chap. He had had enough anyway J. Then Isaac and his brother-in-law escorted me home to make sure I got there before dark. I have been advised by so many people not to be out alone after dark that I stick rigidly to that.
It was a great privilege to be invited to such an event after only a week and a great experience.
